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Old 05-02-2018, 04:13 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Hockeyman View Post
Running a set of Koni reds. Upper / Lower arms are new Moog. Car has been aligned.
The pretension on the lower arm is likely set too low. At stock ride height the tension is set with the arm loaded either with the wheels on the ground or with the lower ball joint loaded under a jack and loaded with vehicle weight. When lowered you should set the pre tension with the wheel unloaded, meaning both rear wheels off the ground.

To loosen pre tension, jack up the rear wheels, loosen the bolt for the rear lower control arm where it secures to the rear sub frame cradle, just loosen the bolt, do not remove the bolt. Also do not confuse this with the trailing arm for rear toe adjustment. Once loose allow a few minutes for the shocks and springs to unload, I like to wait 20-30 minutes after Ive jousted the top of the tire a couple times to force the shock and spring downward. Once the suspension is unloaded tighten the bolt. Spec is like 40 ft lbs, I usually tighten them as tight as I can by hand and then give them 1 quick 1 second burst with my 1/2" impact.

Like I mentioned earlier, with age these chassis are fatigued and have a good deal of flex to them that they didn't have 20-25 years ago, specifically the front upper strut towers, rear upper strut towers and the rear sub frame cradle. It would be wise to add tie bars to help reduce this flex and sag, ESPECIALLY if lowered, but will benefit even those that sit at stock ride height. A rear sway bar like the Addco (if you can find one) will also help reduce any sag. A lot of people think of the steering improvements with tie bars and sway bars, but forget about the most important factor, the increased rigidity and reinforcement sway bars and tie bars give the chassis.

It's also worth asking what stiffness the rear struts are set at on the koni's. I would recommend full stiff or 1 click off full stiff in the rear, on softer settings the koni's do tend to have more travel in the dampener which could also be whats causing the rub. When I was lowered I ran k sports on full stiff in rear, so my suspension hardly moved
Originally Posted by Chrispy
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Last edited by Chrispy; 05-02-2018 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 05-04-2018, 11:50 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
I ran both 235's and 225's no issues at stock ride height and lowered. I had more clearance lowered because the camber was kicked negative 2.5 degrees, which isnt alot considering the spec for the G2 is 0 - -1 degrees. But lowered I was tucking 235's. It wouldn't hurt to roll the fenders very mildly to get a little extra room if rubbing is a concern. I'd suspect worn suspension components and an abrupt compressing of the suspension to be the culprit in most cases.
Pretty much all of this. I have my rear fenders rolled on my coupe and have a fairly low offset wheel on the car now and am on the original suspension (as far as I can tell). The car will on rare occasions let me know if I'm being too aggressive as they'll make mild contact. The sedan I have hasn't been touched as far as rolling the fenders . . . for now. I'm about as low as a Legend can get now and have replaced the suspension components a few times now. As stated old worn suspension components just cause us more reasons to need maintenance as well as a lot of thinking/rethinking (praying pondering and hoping) on wheels and tire choices BEFORE we pull the trigger on getting them.
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:09 PM   #13
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IMO TL A-specs at 18" look to big on the Legends. They stick out from the fenders at 45 offset. Only seen a few individuals on here that did them well with lowered and slight negative camber in on em.

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