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Old 12-29-2009, 12:17 PM   #1
LegendaryAffinity
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Question Idle problem, almost stalls it's self...

I have been having a problem with my Legend almost stalling its self. When I start it up, it runs fine and when the rpms come down to where it is supposed to be at, the idle keeps getting slower until it starts dying and it then catches its self. It will go down to about 500 rpm then back up to about 750 which is where it is supposed to be. It will do this about 5 times than it idles fine from there on out.

The ECU is not giving out any codes. And the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, spark plug wires, and fuel filter were replaced about 10,000 miles ago.

I can get a video if it helps.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-29-2009, 12:34 PM   #2
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Either you have a vacuum leak or your catalytic converter is clogged. But if you like, get us a vid.
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Old 12-29-2009, 04:11 PM   #3
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maybe you have bad gas or your injectors are clogged? Try some fuel injector cleaner at the next fill-up
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Old 12-29-2009, 04:51 PM   #4
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I have a bad O2 sensor with no code (only get the code under certain conditions like under load going up a steep, long grade in 5th gear)...coincidentally I have had your symptoms since I found out the sensor was bad...

You could also try cleaning up the throttle body and checking for slight vacuum leaks...
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Old 12-29-2009, 05:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam o nela View Post
I have a bad O2 sensor with no code (only get the code under certain conditions like under load going up a steep, long grade in 5th gear)...coincidentally I have had your symptoms since I found out the sensor was bad...

You could also try cleaning up the throttle body and checking for slight vacuum leaks...

O2 was one of my initial thoughts as well.

Depending on how much money you've got to throw at it I guess I would try the following which I have listed in order of least expensive to most expensive and most likely to least likey to be your problem in my opinion:

- Spray a bit of throttle body (TB) cleaner or somthing similar around all the vacuum lines to see if the idle increases. If so you have one or more leaks/holes in one of hte vacuum hoses which will need replacing. NB: Pay particular attention to two vacuum lines that go below the TB. The nipples on a sensor down there tend to break off easily leaving either vacuum hose unattached.
- Thoroughly bleed the cooling system (sometimes air in the cooling system can cause idle fluctuations).
- Clean the electronic air idle control valve (EAICV) located just to the right of the throttle body when looking at the vehicle from the drivers hand side. - Clean the throttle body and butterfly.
- Replace the O2 sensors (when one goes bad the second one isn't usually far away).
- Replace the TW sensor (can cause poor/rough idle, rich running and incorrect transmission shifts and lockup).
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Last edited by 89HondaLegend; 12-29-2009 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wksebati View Post
maybe you have bad gas or your injectors are clogged? Try some fuel injector cleaner at the next fill-up
I have tried all types of gas and I still have the problem. I also had the fuel injectors rebuilt and got new seals because they were leaking and I thought it would fix my idle problem too. The leaking stopped and I noticed an increase in power but I still have the idle problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sam o nela View Post
I have a bad O2 sensor with no code (only get the code under certain conditions like under load going up a steep, long grade in 5th gear)...coincidentally I have had your symptoms since I found out the sensor was bad...

You could also try cleaning up the throttle body and checking for slight vacuum leaks...
All the sensors are original except the crankshaft position sensor. So it could be the O2 sensor. I had the check engine light come on once right when I started my car one time. My idle was fluctuating very badly and it didn't sound good at all. I turned off the car and then started it again and it idled perfectly and the check engine light was out. Weird...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89HondaLegend View Post
O2 was one of my initial thoughts as well.

Depending on how much money you've got to throw at it I guess I would try the following which I have listed in order of least expensive to most expensive and most likely to least likey to be your problem in my opinion:

- Spray a bit of throttle body (TB) cleaner or somthing similar around all the vacuum lines to see if the idle increases. If so you have one or more leaks/holes in one of hte vacuum hoses which will need replacing. NB: Pay particular attention to two vacuum lines that go below the TB. The nipples on a sensor down there tend to break off easily leaving either vacuum hose unattached.
- Thoroughly bleed the cooling system (sometimes air in the cooling system can cause idle fluctuations).
- Clean the electronic air idle control valve (EAICV) located just to the right of the throttle body when looking at the vehicle from the drivers hand side. - Clean the throttle body and butterfly.
- Replace the O2 sensors (when one goes bad the second one isn't usually far away).
- Replace the TW sensor (can cause poor/rough idle, rich running and incorrect transmission shifts and lockup).
I have thought it might be the EAICV. How do you clean it? Also what it the TW sensor? And my car is a 5 speed.

Oh I forgot to add, my Legend passed emissions with flying colors just a couple months ago and I still had the idle problems back then. Wouldn't a bad O2 sensor cause me to fail emissions?
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:37 PM   #7
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Before I make any further comments I recommend that you do both of these things:

Firstly check out the G1 FAQ and download the G1 manual.

Secondly have you checked the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) under the passenger side footwell carpet for codes? (G1 FAQ outlines hte procedures and what the codes mean).
The CEL won't necessarilly come back on if the same fault occurs. I bet you have a fault code stored in your ECU which will probably be for the crank angle sensor.
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89HondaLegend View Post
Before I make any further comments I recommend that you do both of these things:

Firstly check out the G1 FAQ and download the G1 manual.

Secondly have you checked the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) under the passenger side footwell carpet for codes? (G1 FAQ outlines hte procedures and what the codes mean).
The CEL won't necessarilly come back on if the same fault occurs. I bet you have a fault code stored in your ECU which will probably be for the crank angle sensor.
Yes there were no codes. The yellow light was blinking and i adjusted the idle screw on the TB. I looked up which way to turn it in the manual. The crank angle sensor was changed about 4 years ago. I mentioned it because it is the only sensor that I know that the dealership changed. But the previous owner brought it in for every service so they would of changed the oxygen sensors every 60K miles... It has 167K so they probably changed them at 120K. So I am going to clean the throttle body and the EAICV and see what happens.
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:58 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by C27A1Legend'88 View Post
Yes there were no codes. The yellow light was blinking and i adjusted the idle screw on the TB. I looked up which way to turn it in the manual. The crank angle sensor was changed about 4 years ago. I mentioned it because it is the only sensor that I know that the dealership changed. But the previous owner brought it in for every service so they would of changed the oxygen sensors every 60K miles... It has 167K so they probably changed them at 120K. So I am going to clean the throttle body and the EAICV and see what happens.

Sounds like a good plan

I suggested the Crank sensor because it can cause low idle and stalling but if it didn't leave a code then chances are slim.
As sam o nela stated above though, O2's are notorious for not giving codes...
Let us know what eventuates anyway.
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:14 PM   #10
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Faulty EACV/AIC valve will cause idle surge; in which IMO, you don't have an issue with!

Long shot, but it's possible... gummed up PR cut-off solenoid valve, which becomes sticky at engine operating temp.
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