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Old 11-19-2011, 09:15 AM   #1
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Default Strange Idle problem

We replaced the Idle Air Control Valve because the code kept coming up and replaced it with a used one on ebay. No more code problem, but when in park the idle speed fluctuates from 1000rpm up to 1200rpm like a yo yo. Just keeps going up and down and won't stop unless you put it in gear. In drive at a stop it does idle about 200rpm on the high side. Have to lookup what it should idle at. Really strange. Anyone out there have any thoughts? I thought if the replacement IACV was defective I would have the code come up. :dunno:
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:18 PM   #2
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There are several possible factors involved the first thing I would do is a search on idle issues here there are many threads that should help, have you done anything that could cause air to get into the coolant system? If so I would start with a good bleeding of the coolant system. and by 200RPM do you mean 200rpms more than normal ie 500 - 600 rpms? I would also suggest looking through the online manual which can also be found here best of luck.
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:32 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info. We did the BHG thing and then bled the system several times, but now I see the TW Sensor and/or the FIV could also be a factor. We didn't have the up down idle problem before replacing the IACV. At least with a new one there are no codes coming up. There are no water leaks and the radiator is always full. Seems the FIV can be adjusted in some manner but I hate to poke around without good detail. The rpm's at idle are more 750 + than 500 to 600. Car runs great with very nice power, if it wasn't for the up down Idle in park all would be very nice. Can't believe it runs this great with 373K miles. Don
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:38 PM   #4
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fluctuating idle is often related to air in the system try putting it on a set of ramps or a steep incline and then bleed it some more. Really seems like a bleed issue, you may also wanna try that special bleeding tool that goes on the radiator I can't remember its official name but I DIY'd one that works great for me. Here we go it is a homemade Lisle bleeder tool,

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Originally Posted by Telion View Post
Something else I came up with to use in place of buying that 20.00 Lisle coolant funnel
(this) http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._kit_wext.html was using a 3.00 funnel from the auto parts store that is self locking (press it in lol) and a rubber hose and a cap to act as a plunger for it.

This is one of my better ideas out of boredom I really like it


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Old 11-19-2011, 08:30 PM   #5
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Raceboone, did you re-tighten the fast idle valve as mentioned in another thread you
posted? If bleeding coolant does not correct fluctuating idle, the fast idle is a
reasonable consideration. A search should produce previous posts/pics. It is located
at the rear of engine on driver side. The online service manual shows its location.
(ten minute procedure.)
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:15 AM   #6
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Tell me more on how, what to re-tighten? By re-tighten do you mean taking the top off the FIV and there is something inside, or do you mean to tighten the bolts on the exterior? Not quite sure on this one. I will also give a search through the DIY's. Thanks for all the good advise. Don
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:24 AM   #7
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Don't fiddle with the FIV, at least until you've ruled out other causes. You said you "did the BHG thing", does that mean you replaced the headgaskets? You said you bled the coolant, did you use a Lisle funnel or one like Telion posted? And did you do that *after* replacing the IACV?

Here's how you test the FIV, don't mess with it if it's working properly, you may just end up masking the problem rather than fixing it: http://www.acuralegendwiki.org/image...195_11-101.png
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:18 AM   #8
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Lots of good info and much appreciated. Never new anything about a "Lisle Funnel" have to look into that. Yes, I am reluctant to touch the FIV. I will continue to bleed the system, maybe find some ramps to get the front end up. Maybe with enough driving around the air (if any) will work its way up to the bleeder point. I will look into the "testing" of the FIV. Maybe it's bad, in some way, been on there for 373K. Hate it when "things" come up that were not a problem before.
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Old 11-21-2011, 03:59 PM   #9
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Follow the instructions to test the FIV and replace it; or, try the info below.
The Fast Idle Valve is at the rear of the engine bay on driver's side,
just under the crossbar. Two screws hold a silver cover plate on. Remove one,
loosen the other and rotate the plate to expose the inside. With a screw driver or similar,
turn the yellow ring clockwise until resistance occurs (probably about 2-4 turns.) Reassemble the unit and see if the surging idle is abated. I did this in January 2009 and the surging stopped and remains stopped as of today. I had previously bled the coolant, and changed the TW sensor without stopping the surging. Your problem may be something else.
Link to fast idle valve location, online service manual
http://www.atfinley.com/service/inde...&z=2690&r=0156
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Last edited by Boru; 11-21-2011 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:21 AM   #10
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That's the kind of info I was looking for. I will raise the frontend and rebleed the system before getting into the FIV. My son is currently about to work on the EGR (repair the diaphragm). I'll give a followup if it gets corrected. Like you I think it's just air in the system and normal bleeding doesn't seem to do the job. Thanks for the detail on the FIV. Don
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