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Old 07-02-2009, 09:23 PM   #1
Alperovich
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Default Poly filling Motor/trans mounts

DIY
Poly filling MOTOR/Trans Mounts

Required Tools/Parts
Dremel w/sanding bit
Aircraft snips/angle spins
duct tape
gloves

Mounts 3X

[note] imho this can be done with a new mount, and a worn mount with the same effect.




60A Poly fill
linky!
One Tub will be enough for 3 mounts.



now that you have all the stuff for the job, lets get this going

old mounts:







Start with removing the middle, and cutting the old rubber joints






Use a dramel with a sanding bit to clean/scuff the old worn rubber.
you want to remove allt he shinny portions of rubber








once the mounts are sanded set the *center thing* in the middle
then procede to duct tape the top side of the mount, crisscross to hold the *center thing* in place.



Flip it over and use the duct tape to completely close off the top end of the mount



make sure to close off the midle so the poly doesn't get in



now flip it over and open the end up, but keep the cente closed off







now to the poly filling



you have to mix the 2 parts together. recommended to wear gloves.

start by thouraly shaking the larger bottle (just like a paint can)

then mix the 2 portions. use the supplied mixer for 2-4min, make sure to get the corners and clean the mixer atleast 2twice.

once mixed you have a 15-20 use window with this stuff.




once mixed. start filling the mounts in.











now you have to let the poly cure.

recommended is letting it cure at room temp for 2 days. at which point it'll be 80-90% cured, 100% after 5 days. use after 7days.

i think that just about covers it. let me know if u guys have any suggestion/changes.

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Last edited by Alperovich; 07-02-2009 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:26 PM   #2
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Nice DIY.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:01 PM   #3
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new mounts same procedure? completely cut out the middle?
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:07 PM   #4
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new mounts same procedure? completely cut out the middle?
new mounts, i'd probably just go ahead and fill them up, and leave it be.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:08 PM   #5
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Huh. So you basically just make it one solid mass instead of the inside-outside pieces that the original is? Very good DIY!
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:16 PM   #6
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so i once looked at this and was told although it made the mounts tough, it also made the ride harder, what are your opinions, or have you gotten that far yet?

hey also is this stuff on that special list that has to be delivered to a business, non-residential?

Last edited by Biggg72; 07-02-2009 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:34 PM   #7
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i had it delivered to residential. it was shipped via ups ground. i got it the next day.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggg72 View Post
so i once looked at this and was told although it made the mounts tough, it also made the ride harder, what are your opinions, or have you gotten that far yet?
I filled mine with 80A (harder than the 60A used here), and only feel added vibrations at idle. I feel no difference while driving, except for the possibility of getting torque to the wheels a split-second faster. Even lower hardness ratings is acceptable for use also, McMaster sells all the way from 20A to 75D. If you fill yours and are unhappy with any added vibrations you feel, you can drill some holes in it until you think it feels better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggg72 View Post
hey also is this stuff on that special list that has to be delivered to a business, non-residential?
McMaster sells direct to consumers also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alperovich View Post
Start with removing the middle, and cutting the old rubber joints

Use a dramel with a sanding bit to clean/scuff the old worn rubber.
you want to remove allt he shinny portions of rubber
This is an optional step. Doing this will make the eurethane "bond" stronger to the existing rubber, but it will never fall apart if you decide to skip this step.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alperovich View Post
recommended is letting it cure at room temp for 2 days. at which point it'll be 80-90% cured, 100% after 5 days. use after 7days.
7 days is a bit excessive. There's not much weight on any of them, and it's not like they will rupture and "leak" if installed too soon. The majority of the weight is on the two center mounts (and a third front center if you have it). I think installing earlier may even be beneficial. If you don't put the center peice in perfectly straight, you don't want it to harden completely and then find out it doesn't line up perfectly. Install them before they're fully cured and the centers may reposition themselves to the exact correct location. I installed mine after 2 days.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:45 PM   #9
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how do you determine that the free floating center pieces (broken completely out) are at the right spot?

edit:
thanks for the info Quaraxkad.
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Old 07-02-2009, 10:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaraxkad View Post
I filled mine with 80A (harder than the 60A used here), and only feel added vibrations at idle. I feel no difference while driving, except for the possibility of getting torque to the wheels a split-second faster. Even lower hardness ratings is acceptable for use also, McMaster sells all the way from 20A to 75D. If you fill yours and are unhappy with any added vibrations you feel, you can drill some holes in it until you think it feels better.

^ what he said!


McMaster sells direct to consumers also.



This is an optional step. Doing this will make the eurethane "bond" stronger to the existing rubber, but it will never fall apart if you decide to skip this step.

i agree, which is why i say, its okay to just fill the new mounts in. but i feel as long as u are in tehre, might as well make it as best as it can be, or better atleast.

7 days is a bit excessive. There's not much weight on any of them, and it's not like they will rupture and "leak" if installed too soon. The majority of the weight is on the two center mounts (and a third front center if you have it). I think installing earlier may even be beneficial. If you don't put the center peice in perfectly straight, you don't want it to harden completely and then find out it doesn't line up perfectly. Install them before they're fully cured and the centers may reposition themselves to the exact correct location. I installed mine after 2 days.
idk, the info sheet that came with the mount said 5-7 days to cure 100%. personally, it hink at 2 days, u can bake it for a 15-20min and they'll be cured.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kotetu View Post
how do you determine that the free floating center pieces (broken completely out) are at the right spot?

well with these, i they were semi broken, it put them into oem place and marked the position on a news paper, then when building the mounts, it looked as if its more or less centered. as pictured. soo.. your good to go to follow my position placements.
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