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Old 04-25-2010, 10:58 AM   #1
sam o nela
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Default G1: Manual Transmission Fluid Change

Manual Transmission Fluid Change

Tools needed:
~17mm socket or wrench
~3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar
~Drain pan
~Funnel with a long, flexible extension (or a pump…your choice)
~4-5 quarts of manual transmission fluid (your choice)

Warning(s): NEVER get under a car that is only supported by a jack! You must use jack stands, automotive ramps, or some other safe means of securing a lifted car before you go underneath! Also, this DIY is for illustrative purposes only and you unfortunately cannot hold the forum or me responsible if you royally screw shit up. Just saying…


Step 1: Get the car up so that you can safely get under it to gain access to the fill and drain bolt on the transmission. They are located on the driver’s side near the axle.



Step 2: After locating the two bolts, undo the Fill bolt first. It will be on fairly tight and the reason you do it first is because it allows the oil to drain faster/easier and because it would totally suck ass to drain all of the fluid out only to find that you cannot get the fill bolt off


Step 3: Now undo the Drain plug and allow the fluid to drain. This will go a lot faster and easier if your transmission fluid is warm, but it is by no means 100% necessary.


Step 4: While the fluid is draining out, position your funnel from the top so that the hose reaches into the fill hole.








Step 4.1: OPTIONAL -After the fluid has finished draining, replace and hand tighten the drain plug and add a quart of oil through the funnel. Let it sit for about a minute, and then undo the drain plug again. This should help carry out any residual old, dirty fluid that might have been hanging around.

Step 5: After the draining is complete, replace and tighten the drain bolt (29 lbs.) and bring the car back down to level ground. One quart at a time, add the oil to the tranny through funnel while ensuring that it is not spilling all over the place. It should be about 3.5 quarts. Once the oil level in the transmission reaches the bottom of the fill hole (a little bit might seep out), replace the crush washer and tighten up the fill bolt (33 lbs.). Don’t mind my makeshift crush washer…my dealership, for whatever reason, didn’t have any on hand hgeez:




Take the car for a ride and remember to check for leaks or seepage from the two bolts.

Oh yeah....and keep your shit cleaner than I did
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Last edited by sam o nela; 04-25-2010 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 04-25-2010, 12:04 PM   #2
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...plus one on them drain/fill crush washers replacement; good write-up Gabe
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Old 04-25-2010, 08:24 PM   #3
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can we change the rules on rep? seems like every time i see something like this and try to give it, it just tells me to spread it around more

great writeup btw
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Old 07-20-2013, 10:41 AM   #4
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I hate to necro an old thread but what kind of Oil should we use in the tranny? IE 10w40 or 10w30?
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:40 PM   #5
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Either one that is rated SF grade.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:43 PM   #6
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Which would you recommend for an 88 l with 270k miles?
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:19 PM   #7
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For me, I use what Acura has at their dealership for MT. But 10w30 and 10w40 are pretty close to its thickness.
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:29 PM   #8
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sadly closest acura dealership is like a 300 mile round trip and the Honda one near here is clueless....
I'll get done decent 10w30 and hope all goes well.
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:54 PM   #9
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can't go wrong with royal purple in our diff/tranny,

i use 10-30, 10-40 made my diff laggy when cold.
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Old 07-28-2013, 05:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cars-all-mighty View Post
can't go wrong with royal purple in our diff/tranny,

i use 10-30, 10-40 made my diff laggy when cold.
I was considering royal purple but was told not to because i had been using conventional oil and if i changed to synthetic it could blow my seals. Is this information incorrect?

-Wes-
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