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Old 03-18-2010, 01:19 AM   #1
l4zy415
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Post Adding Wires For Aftermarket Amp (56K Warning)

Disclaimer: I am not held responsible or anyone in AL.org, if you either hurt yourself or do any damage to your vehicle. Do this at your own risk.

Part 1

I'm gonna show you a good way to add new wires to your G1 and tuck them away so no one sees wires all over the place.

Estimate time:1-2 hours

These are the items you will be needing:
Phillip and Flat Head Screwdriver
10mm Socket and Extension
Wire Cutter
About 6-8 inch of Clear/Plastic Tube
Blade
Electrical Tape
Electrical Wire Crimper
Crimp Terminal for power wire to battery
Fuse Block
4-1/0 AWG Power Wire that is the length from the battery to the trunk
4-1/0 AWG Ground Wire
16 AWG Wire to power on the amp that is the length from the HU, around the passenger footwell, to the trunk
RCA cable to get sound from the HU to the amp that is long enough to get to the HU to the trunk
Floor Jack/Jack Stand
Cross Wrench

Optional:
Butt Splices
or
Soldering Iron and Solder
Shrink Tube
Heat Gun/Hair Blower


Removing Items

First thing first, disconnect the ground cable from the battery so you do not get shocked or damage something in your vehicle.

1: You will need to lift up the front driver side of the car. Use your floor jack to lift the car using the pinch point under the car. Then your gonna need to remove the wheel.


2: Remove the screws/plastic screws to get the splash guard out of the way. Sedans has the chrome trim, so you'll need to remove that also that goes around the fender. Coupes does not have it. If you have the mudflaps, you also need to remove that.




3: There's a grommet that goes behind the fusebox in the cabin. Remove the grommet and punch a hole for the power wire to go through and go inside the cabin to pull the wire through.



4: Once you got that done, your gonna run the wire through the yellow ring all the way to the hole where the battery is.



Where the rest of the wires come out in the battery area:


5: When thats done, put back the splash guard/chrome trim, wheel back on and car back on the floor.

6: Now your gonna need to remove a certain interior parts. Remove the plastic door sills, and seatbelt cover. Do the same on the passenger side.




7: To remove the rear seat, there is a bracket and a 10mm bolt that is holding down the cushion seat in the middle. I don't have mine connected because the mounting bracket are different from the 86-88 and 89-90 Sedan. So I have 89-90 rear seats in my 88. Once you got that bolt out, remove the cushion. Then there's 4 10mm bolts holding down the rear seat. Once you got the bolts removed, pull the seat upwards to unhook them. Remove the headrest to get the hidden bolts. Now you will need to remove the plastic trim on the side. Remove the other one from the passenger side too.






8: With the clear rubber/plastic tube, measure around the hole with the tube, cut in half, then slice the tube on one side only, not in half. Then place the tube around the hole so the wire does not get cut. Do the same on the passenger side hole.


9: Now your gonna need to remove the center console out. There are 4 screws on both sides, and 2 inside the armrest lid. Remove the compartment in front of the shifter out to reveal 2 screws in there. Then carefully pop off the shifter surrounding. Don't pull it too quick because there is a light bulb attached to it, so disconnect it. Then there's 2 more screws behind the surrounding. Between the center trim and armrest lid, there's a bracket in the middle held in by 2 screws, remove that bracket, then carefully separate the armrest from the center. From the climate control, if you look up in that area, there's 2 more screws. Once you got all the screws removed, now you can pull of the center trim. There's 4 screws holding down the HU. Carefully pull it out and disconnect the plugs.






MISSING BRACKET






I know, really messy in there. Don't worry, yours will not look like that, unless you did a Auto climate Swap lol. I'll clean that area up soon.

End of Part 1.
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Last edited by l4zy415; 03-18-2010 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 03-18-2010, 01:19 AM   #2
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Part 2

Tucking Wires
10: Back to the front driver side, your gonna need to remove the fuse cover. Its held in by 1 screw and a plastic tab. Then remove the rubber foot rest to uncover 2 10mm bolts. Remove that and pull back the carpet.



11: On the white rectangular case, there are black tapes that are on each end. Cut that off and split the cover open with a flat head screwdriver. There are a total of 6, 3 on the driver and passenger side. Split them open. Once you got it all open, behind the wires, there is a gap big enough to run the power wire through. Move the power wire behind the fuse lid bracket and run it all the way through the white case to the trunk. Once the power wire is through on all 3 cases, seal it back up by pushing it down hard and place new black tape on the ends if you like.




12: If your running a 4 AWG wire, wrap the area in black tape so in time, it won't slice the rubber and cause an electrical damage. Then, you can slide the wire through the hole that holds the rear seat. Any other bigger wires, just run it through the hole with the ring hose around it.



13: For the passenger side white case, your going to run the RCA cable and the 16 AWG wire through there. Remove the side plastic trim held in by 1 or 2 screws. In the footwell, pull back the carpet and run the wires under it to the back where the stereo console sits.



Connecting Wires
14: Most aftermarket HU will have a blue w/ white line on it. That is the remote wire that will power on the amp. Butt crimp or solder and shrink tube the remote wire to the 16 AWG wire. Connect the RCA cable to the HU that either is marked as Sub or Rear.

15: On the amp, there will be a couple of areas to connect the wires. The BATT + terminal is for the power wire, remote for the remote wire, GRD - terminal for the ground wire, RCA In for the RCA Cable, and speaker terminal with + and - that goes to the subs. There are a couple of good locations to connect the ground wires. WARNING, do not connect the ground wire to the fuel pump lid. You can cause a fire and it can hurt you pretty badly. Once everything is connected back there, now you can put back the center console, rear seats, and other interior trims that were removed.



16: Under the hood, your gonna need to install the fuse block near the battery. Mount the block where ever you want. Your going to need to crimp a crimp terminal on the end of the wire to the fuse block. Then run another wire from the fuse block to the positive terminal of the battery. Once the wire is nicely snugged on the terminal, you can place back the ground wire back on the negative terminal. Be careful as it might shoot sparks.

Congratulations, you just wired up your system into your car. Test out the sound system and make sure everything is working. I hope this DIY has helped you out on how to wire up your stereo system. Happy bass thumpin' .
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:36 AM   #3
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Great job man! I'd just like to add that everywhere that the power wire contacts parts of the body (especially in the rear seat area) one should really consider wrapping both the wire and the metal part of the body in electrical tape to reduce the risk of rubbing the wire's insulation down over time....

Awesome job man!

BTW does your car have that plug that I used for the 12v wire (near the A/C evaporator drain tube)?
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:53 AM   #4
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I believe so lol. I think I ran a wire through there for the coolant and washer sensor
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