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Old 09-01-2009, 02:38 PM   #21
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You can re-weld that with a simple stick welder and some 316 - 3/32" rod. 304 stainless steel does rust, it just takes awhile. The higher the number (in general, there are some ductility factors) the less susceptible to corrosion it is. That would take about 5 minutes to fix.
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Old 09-01-2009, 02:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by T-Clyde View Post
uuuhhh, seeing where its cracked. and havin a background in welding. i don't agree.. YES that bracket would have helped. i have no arguement there.
HOWEVER. anything that cracks right at the weld. or right next to it. is inferior and poorly welded.

i had NO opinion on OBX until seeing HOW they cracked. not THAT they cracked.
^^^^
I agree, on pipe fitting welds the stongest point of the pipeis in the weld. Without seeing the whole weld my guess is that it started to crack because of dishing out in the pipe material. This is due to having the amps too high in the welding process.
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:03 PM   #23
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looks like you were leaking oil on them for quite some time, I'm sure that didn't help them last.. there shouldn't be much stress on the headers to begin with. Make sure you fix the leakage problems before you put a fresh set of expensive headers on your car.
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:11 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by forevralegend View Post
looks like you were leaking oil on them for quite some time, I'm sure that didn't help them last.. there shouldn't be much stress on the headers to begin with. Make sure you fix the leakage problems before you put a fresh set of expensive headers on your car.
i wasn't aware they made expensive headers for our cars. its the oil pan gasket. i believe its actually the oil pan causing the leak. if i pull the motor out to fix the leak, i don't think i'll be putting this motor back in. hgeez: so i'll keep leaving my mark in people's driveways and garages.
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:14 PM   #25
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RICEY












J/K!!!!!

Damn Alex, I guess I better get under my GS and inspect my headers too. One advantage I have is the dry weather here though....
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:21 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alperovich View Post
i wasn't aware they made expensive headers for our cars. its the oil pan gasket. i believe its actually the oil pan causing the leak. if i pull the motor out to fix the leak, i don't think i'll be putting this motor back in. hgeez: so i'll keep leaving my mark in people's driveways and garages.
Keep leaving your mark huh? lol
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:22 PM   #27
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Keep leaving your mark huh? lol
haha yea, just ask jen
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alperovich View Post
i wasn't aware they made expensive headers for our cars. its the oil pan gasket. i believe its actually the oil pan causing the leak. if i pull the motor out to fix the leak, i don't think i'll be putting this motor back in. hgeez: so i'll keep leaving my mark in people's driveways and garages.

I'm talking about the new headers that are being produced. If you decide to get them, you wouldn't want to destroy the nice stainless steel by leaking oil on them.
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:15 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Clyde View Post
uuuhhh, seeing where its cracked. and havin a background in welding. i don't agree.. YES that bracket would have helped. i have no arguement there.
HOWEVER. anything that cracks right at the weld. or right next to it. is inferior and poorly welded.

i had NO opinion on OBX until seeing HOW they cracked. not THAT they cracked.
EXACTLY! I thought bang for buck, the OBX's were ok, if they would last. Its not that they cracked, its WHERE they cracked and after how long. Dont get me wrong, any stress or added load would speed this process up, but this also isnt the first instance of these headers cracking along the welds.
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:22 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Don't settle for the cheaper headers on eBay which are known to crack over time due to cheap welding, thin flanges, and very thin wall thickness. Also comes with a lifetime warranty from manufacturer defects.
........
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