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Old 06-15-2011, 07:19 PM   #11
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Its available here: https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/...UTCH%20RELEASE

EDIT:

Here's the one for the 87': https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/...UTCH%20RELEASE
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitchwatembo View Post
yea the new slave is identical to the old one....
hmmmmmm
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...I was not aware of this, and cant seem to find it in the FSM. Is it located on the slave itself, or on the fork somewhere?...
I'll get a pix of mine for you - it is on the rod itself
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...Ill have to check out pedal travel and see if my fork pivot ball has been broken...
Thank goodnes for tiny LED flashlights and cell phone cameras. You don't have a direct line of sight but you should be able to photograph the tranny-side of the fork with your cell digi cam and some LED flashlighting - all through the fork port - like a spy-cam.
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:23 AM   #13
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That's good. I would replace both the fork and the pivot bolt.
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:42 PM   #14
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Cant find concrete signs of fork pivot bolt being broken, everything feels ok.after reading around online at similar problems, it appears the pressure plate may be the problem. weak fingers leading to clutch play perhaps?

Clutch was replaced about 75k miles ago, but I have no idea on lifetimes of these (60k grandma driving, 25k me driving spirited).

How often do you 5spd guys change your clutch?

Also, how difficult is the clutch job on G1's, compared to timing belt, etc?
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Last edited by kitchwatembo; 06-23-2011 at 11:43 PM. Reason: add info
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:37 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitchwatembo View Post
Cant find concrete signs of fork pivot bolt being broken, everything feels ok.after reading around online at similar problems, it appears the pressure plate may be the problem. weak fingers leading to clutch play perhaps?

Clutch was replaced about 75k miles ago, but I have no idea on lifetimes of these (60k grandma driving, 25k me driving spirited).

How often do you 5spd guys change your clutch?

Also, how difficult is the clutch job on G1's, compared to timing belt, etc?
The clutch replacement is moderately difficult. I would look at the online shop manual instructions for the details. One difficult step is removing the flywheel
bolts to get the flywheel surfaced (which you should do). I was able to lock the flywheel using a 5 ft length of angle iron held against the clutch dowels. The correct tool is a 12 point 17 mm socket. You should use a trans jack to remove and replace the transmission.

Check with Rock auto for parts. When I did mine about a year ago they had a Beck Arnley clutch kit for about $80 which has worked out fine.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:57 AM   #16
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I checked Rock auto. The have one of the Beck Arnley clutch kits left. It's about $110
which is a very good price.
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Old 07-11-2011, 04:25 PM   #17
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If for some reason you need a clutch fork please see my other thread. I tried ordering an OEM fork from various places and it's not available any longer but i found a compatible replacement from Honda Accord/Prelude that will work.

http://forums.acuralegend.org/showpo...8&postcount=14
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:14 PM   #18
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the pivot bolt is not broken, but the fork has worn grooves in it.

I will be pulling the tranny to replace the bolt. I planned on checking out the clutch while there, possibly resurface flywheel.

any other maintenance i should look into while i'm in there like shift linkages and whatnot?
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:46 PM   #19
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I don't think i'm getting the axle nut off the driver side...




but after removing the radius rod and a stabilizing bar, the hub assembly swung away.

Can I get the tranny away from the intermediate shaft without removing the passenger side axle?
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:36 AM   #20
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I've broken 1/2" drive tools removing an axle nut. You need 3/4" drive.

The axle shaft doesn't have to come out of the knuckle assembly, just disconnect the ball joint and pry the axle out of the transmission.
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