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Old 06-13-2011, 03:49 PM   #1
kitchwatembo
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Question New Clutch Slave Leaking

This type of issue has been discussed in small detail here:

http://forums.acuralegend.org/clutch...slave+cylinder

but no real conclusions were drawn so I pose the question that last poster had,

my brand new slave cylinder squirts out fluid from the dust cover, as if the rod was being pushed out too far. Is there some release fork adjustment I'm not aware of? perhaps my fork is not connected, how do you reconnect? FSM is vague and basically just says to install and bleed.


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Old 06-13-2011, 05:32 PM   #2
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Default missing or leaking piston seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by kitchwatembo View Post
...my brand new slave cylinder squirts out fluid from the dust cover, as if the rod was being pushed out too far. Is there some release fork adjustment I'm not aware of? ...
Nope, you've got a bad one.
There's a cupped piston inside the slave cylinder and it pushes the ram-rod. Yes there are different ram-rods according to year and manufacturer of the the slave cylinder itself - again different according to year of car.

But the slave cylinder has its own seal - yours obviously has failed...or was never installed - not that anything sloppy has EVER happend in a factory ... JK /sarc

If you remove the rubber cap you can see the piston and therefore see if it has been pushed out too far - doesn't seem likely to me if you have the correct slave cylinder....matching the one you removed.... and also assuming you have installed the fork and ramrod correctly - I have assumed that you did :-)

Last edited by (/O^O\); 06-13-2011 at 05:40 PM. Reason: edit
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:35 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinton View Post
If you remove the rubber cap you can see the piston and therefore see if it has been pushed out too far - doesn't seem likely to me if you have the correct slave cylinder....matching the one you removed.... and also assuming you have installed the fork and ramrod correctly - I have assumed that you did :-)
this is the part I'm not so sure of. Any tips on installing the fork (i never took it completely out) ? I couldn't find any specs on the amount of play on the fork but it moves over an inch in all directions.
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:49 PM   #4
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Default Oooo....that's a clue....

Quote:
Originally Posted by kitchwatembo View Post
this is the part I'm not so sure of. Any tips on installing the fork (i never took it completely out) ? I couldn't find any specs on the amount of play on the fork but it moves over an inch in all directions.
Well, that kind of changes things a little...

Your clutch throwout bearing fork, when installed moves mostly in the direction of the slave cylinder ram rod only and very little sideways. Think of this as being just like your manual tranny shift lever that goes from 3 to 4 but very little side play - a little, but mostly front-to-back. (ignore neutral - not a perfect example). In fact if you look at your tranny internal shift forks the principle is identical. ( sry, kind of random there)

When installing the slave cylinder, the ram rod has to be pushed into the cylinder - do it by bleeding the fluid out of the slave - because otherwise you can't set the ram rod between the slave and the clutch fork....there's too much clutch spring force on the fork preventing it moving by hand - unless you are Hercules.

time to say "Oh sh*t" and figure out how to get the fork on its pivot without separating the tranny...I've never needed to do that....need some drawings of parts to figure this out....


Last edited by (/O^O\); 06-13-2011 at 11:20 PM. Reason: add image
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:56 PM   #5
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well im not convinced im in OH Sh!t mode just yet, my inch guesstimate was a little much, I took a closer look and think the fork is still in place
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:37 AM   #6
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from what i can tell the fork is still in place and seems difficult to move to far from the original position.

however every time i bleed the system and enough pressure builds, the slave piston shoots out too far and leaks, i also think every time it gets pushed out this far, the seal on the piston is getting damaged. even very careful instillation with delicate bleeding of a brand new slave cylinder led to this.

is it possible that something something else could be wrong , even the clutch itself leading to all of this extra gap between fork and slave ramrod? I cant imagine adjusting the master cylinder to not engage so far could help?
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Last edited by kitchwatembo; 06-15-2011 at 01:40 AM. Reason: add question
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinton View Post
Nope, you've got a bad one..... Yes there are different ram-rods ...slave cylinder has its own seal - yours obviously has failed...or was never installed - ...if you have the correct slave cylinder....matching the one you removed..
^^ are you absolutely certain of the above?^^

Quote:
Originally Posted by tinton View Post
...When installing the slave cylinder, the ram rod has to be pushed into the cylinder - ...otherwise you can't set the ram rod between the slave and the clutch fork....
^^did you experience this or did it all just seem to pop into place? You would have needed a conscious effort to make these parts fit this way^^

Quote:
Originally Posted by kitchwatembo View Post
from what i can tell the fork is still in place and seems difficult to move to far from the original position...the slave piston shoots out too far and leaks, ...extra gap between fork and slave ramrod? I cant imagine adjusting the master cylinder to not engage so far could help?
Your words about extra gap are everything in diagnosing this. We can't see the old and new parts but something is not like the other. Your ramrod has an adjuster nut and I am confident you know this and have tried using it - it is what "fine tunes" the slave and clutch engagement stroke. Your master cylinder just adjusts the pedal stroke motion.

I would emphasize that if the fork is really mounted in position then the new slave must not be like the original. Dunno how or why... just sayin...

When you have the right parts it's gonna be hard to get the ramrod into position without inserting it into the slave empty of fluid - then you have to "pump it up" and then adjust the ramrod stroke.

As always
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:12 PM   #8
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yea the new slave is identical to the old one.

Quote:
Your ramrod has an adjuster nut
I was not aware of this, and cant seem to find it in the FSM. Is it located on the slave itself, or on the fork somewhere?


thanks for all the replies, also found this thread somewhat helpful from old forum
Ill have to check out pedal travel and see if my fork pivot ball has been broken

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...lowout-118201/
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinton View Post
Well, that kind of changes things a little...

Your clutch throwout bearing fork, when installed moves mostly in the direction of the slave cylinder ram rod only and very little sideways. Think of this as being just like your manual tranny shift lever that goes from 3 to 4 but very little side play - a little, but mostly front-to-back. (ignore neutral - not a perfect example). In fact if you look at your tranny internal shift forks the principle is identical. ( sry, kind of random there)

When installing the slave cylinder, the ram rod has to be pushed into the cylinder - do it by bleeding the fluid out of the slave - because otherwise you can't set the ram rod between the slave and the clutch fork....there's too much clutch spring force on the fork preventing it moving by hand - unless you are Hercules.

time to say "Oh sh*t" and figure out how to get the fork on its pivot without separating the tranny...I've never needed to do that....need some drawings of parts to figure this out....

In the picture part #3 is critical. If it's broken then the clutch fork may shift around and it is possible the slave cylinder could extend too much. I don't know if the part is still available.
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Old 06-15-2011, 07:18 PM   #10
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The Acura e-store shows that neither the release fork or pivot bolt are still available.

There are very similar pivot bolts on Honda Accords of around 1990 vintage which might work.
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