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Old 01-25-2013, 08:57 PM   #41
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But... but... I thought LS1?



Just playing, I am really excited to see this build pan out. Looking Good!
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:27 PM   #42
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Spent last night double checking all of the parts I need from the donor car and reading over all of the DIYs on engine removal for the Grand Prix, to be prepared for any snags or specialty tools I might need. Seemed pretty straightforward. Got to the junkyard today 4 minutes after they opened and started working (with a helper). A few hours later and the engine is out. Had a couple of snags, but nothing that wasn't easily worked around. Also happened to run in to two guys, one of them said that car had belonged to his cousin! Couldn't get any good info out of him about what was wrong with it to be in the JY, so I'm still not sure what I've got here. Then we went to the front to check out...

The guy comes over to mark down what I got. Naturally, he couldn't just charge me for an engine, I had to pay extra for the alternator, the power steering pump, the AC compressor, the starter, and the supercharger. I should have told him it wasn't a supercharger, it's just an intake manifold with a pulley on it. He does his thing, rings it up, gives me the total and I pay. So now I'm waiting for the truck to get here to carry this stuff home. Then the guy realizes he only charged me for one CV axle and I had two... So I pay for it, and go back to waiting. The truck arrives, I start pulling the cart out to the truck. Then the guy shows up again and says, "Hey, I didn't charge you for that transmission". SOB! So I go back in, and there's another $175 bill on top of the previous $595 and $38.

Now in the parking lot, we've got a truck and a trailer. They have a hoist out there for loading trucks, but the trailer doesn't fit between the legs of the hoist, so we can't get the trailer underneath the engine. It's a "truck" truck, not a pickup, so we can't back it up under the hoist either. So I thought "WWRD?" Luckily, we have ratchet straps... So we've got the engine hanging in the air, and use three ratchet straps to pull the engine forward so it's above the trailer. This took about an hour, at least, of pulling it forward, lowering the engine a bit, repositioning the straps, forward more, etc. Eventually we get it far up enough on the trailer for a good balance of weight on the axle and set it down.





Back at home, safe in the garage. (ECM is *inside* the air filter box, off to the side on the right )



The "HD" axles. I'll need to take off the inner joint and put them on the axles out of my Cutlass. That's a messy job...



A taste of things to come.



I don't expect I'll do much tomorrow. I've got to get an engine stand. Then decide what to do with it... Do I want to tear it down and get a better look at the internals, or try to find all of the remaining puzzle pieces within 30 (warranty) days and throw it all in ASAP?

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Old 01-28-2013, 04:56 AM   #43
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I started taking off the wiring harness yesterday, and for the first time had a good look around the exterior. I found a few very minor issues, pretty insignificant stuff so far.

One of the "fins" on the superchargers snout has a dent in it. It looks like the previous owner used a prybar between that and the alternator to rotate the engine forward.



One of the coilpacks has a super rusty contact. The rest are clean and shiny.



This shift cable is broken. I did notice this at the JY, and I won't be using the cable from the donor, so I don't care. I'm just looking for anything simple that may have stumped the previous owner and caused him to junk the car...



I got an engine stand for $45 from Harbor Freight with a coupon. It's junk! I'm not surprised, but the good ones I've found are all over $200, so I'll live with this one.

Then I started separating the engine from the transmission so I could put it on the stand. Now is when I start to run into some issues. While unbolting the drive plate and rotating the crank, I hear a pop and a clunk... As if something snapped and fell down into the oil pan. There wasn't much resistance in turning the crank, I'm not sure what it could be yet. I'm staying optimistic until I get the oil pan off to see what that was. If the block turns out to be fine, I'm keeping it. If not, I'll get a quote from a machine shop for a repair (might get a good deal through a friend), and if it's unreasonable, the whole thing is going back and my search starts over from step 1.

Engine separated from the trans now, and I'm ready to put it on the stand. But there's a problem. The engine is facing the wrong way on the hoist, I need to spin it around 180 to roll the stand up to it. This was no fun. I had to let the engine down to the ground and balance it on one mount and a jackstand, then unbolt the leveler and turn it in the opposite direction. Then lift the engine again and spin it around 90. Then back to the ground, adjust the leveler, lift it again, and now it's facing the right way... Went to Lowes to get some bolts that were long enough to get through the stand and thread all the way into the block. Took a while to find a way to get all of the "arms" of the stand to bolt up, but I eventually found a way.



I ran out of time, so I wasn't able to remove the oil pan. But I did take off the throttlebody and had a look inside the supercharger. There's some scoring on the walls and rotors. It's just out of reach, so I can't tell how deep it is. If it turns out to be bad but the block is good I can return just the supercharger, then start looking for a replacement. Maybe a Gen V upgrade (this is a Gen III).

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Old 01-28-2013, 01:43 PM   #44
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Mystery solved.






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Old 01-28-2013, 01:52 PM   #45
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Damn! I guess back to square 1 now.
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:55 PM   #46
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Ouch!!

It will still run like that though won't it??

Well, thank the maker for 30 day warranties!!
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:14 PM   #47
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Wow that's truly ruined. Better to find out now I guess?
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:14 PM   #48
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Ouch! So did you take that one back today?
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:10 PM   #49
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I'm reviewing my options. Now that I have an L67 from a W-body, I have all of the brackets and W-body specific parts. I'm taking all of that stuff off and keeping it. My next step is to pull the supercharger and heads. If they are both salvageable, I am returning just the block for a full refund, then I'll "re-purchase" the parts that I kept. Since I already have the w-body specific parts, I can then start looking for *any* Series II or Series III 3800 from *any* GM vehicle (somewhere around 15 different models) instead of limiting myself to only the Grand Prix GTP and Regal GS. It doesn't even have to be supercharged, because the shortblocks are all interchangeable: L36=SII N/A, L67=SII S/C, L26=SIII N/A, L32=SIII S/C.

The N/A 3800 blocks have a higher compression ratio of 9.4:1 compared to the 8.5:1 on the S/C blocks. So I can take any N/A block (there are probably about 20 candidates in this same junkyard), install the parts I kept from the L67, and have a high-compression S/C 3800. I'll install a larger S/C pulley to prevent knock. I thought that the S/C blocks used stronger pistons and rods, but now that I'm researching it again I can't find where I read that information, so maybe it's not true. What I do know is that Series III blocks used Powder Forged rods vs Cast, and they are apparently more prone to shattering rather than just bending. But a Series III will also likely have fewer miles.

That's all assuming both the heads and supercharger are salvageable... If they are not, I'm returning everything and going back to Step 1.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:23 PM   #50
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WOW!!!
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