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Old 12-14-2009, 01:06 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by igor_ka7 View Post
Yea i need to remove inorder to put new ones. Well i dont know how to remove them. And when i go to the junk yard how am i supposed to remove them without breaking them. Because at the dealer they sell all the clips, and it costs way too much. if anyone could please help, i cant solve this damn problem for a while.
There's a page about that trim in the body section of the service manual. it shows where the clips are but it's not very helpful in removing it. my guess is prying evenly and gently on it until it comes off.
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:20 AM   #12
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i always drive in D4, the only time i will down shift is if i'm going down hill in the snow so i have more engine brake
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:44 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by canucks View Post
imo you should replace that piece instead of removing those or paint it the trim to match

Quick Question

D3 is for stop and go traffic and D4 is for normal and highway driving. What am I supposed to use for city driving. I don't like to go into D4 unless im on the highway and it would be wrong to be driving in overdrive all the time right. What do you drive in?
D4 is fine I use it all the time up a steep hill put it in D3
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Old 12-14-2009, 02:52 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Wes View Post
There's a page about that trim in the body section of the service manual. it shows where the clips are but it's not very helpful in removing it. my guess is prying evenly and gently on it until it comes off.
I understand that... But the clips are broken now... the only part left is the metal things inside! and im wondering if anyone knows how to take it off.
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:36 PM   #15
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They're the little circular things sitting in the red plate. Sorry I don't have better pictures of them, it never occured to me to take pictures of the seals when I did this job. In the lower right corner of the head, where the valve and valve spring are removed, you can see the opening that the valve stem fits into. The seal fits right over that. When you replace the seals, make sure you coat them lightly with a little bit of CLEAN motor oil (preferably the oil you'll be using in the car) so they don't get damaged when you fit the stem through them or when you first start the car.

Edit: Coat the valve stem with oil too.
you mean the circular things that are pilled up?
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When something is so obviously wrong and draws your attention this strongly, you should look around to see what it's drawing attention away from.
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:47 PM   #16
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Igor; this is the link to page Wes mentioned. I have a coupe so the process is different.
I have to remove weather strip to expose screws, then unscrew them. How did you get as far as you are now? The sill and weather stripping look in place.
http://www.atfinley.com/service/inde...&z=2690&r=0756
Coupe instructions:
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2...6/IMG_0109.jpg
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:05 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Boru View Post
Igor; this is the link to page Wes mentioned. I have a coupe so the process is different.
I have to remove weather strip to expose screws, then unscrew them. How did you get as far as you are now? The sill and weather stripping look in place.
http://www.atfinley.com/service/inde...&z=2690&r=0756
Coupe instructions:
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2...6/IMG_0109.jpg
Well i was repainting my car... Took those chrome moldings off and these ones broke... the rest didnt. So i never put that last part in after repaint.
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:08 PM   #18
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but see... im not talking about the molding on the door. Im talking about where the molding is missing. There are metal pieces in there
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:02 AM   #19
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you mean the circular things that are pilled up?
Yep. With the green rubber inside of them.
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:46 AM   #20
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Here's one:

Does anyone else have to give their car a bit of gas whle cranking to get it to start on cold mornings?
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