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Old 11-23-2009, 09:14 PM   #11
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That's exactly what happened to me, and it was even through a dealership:

http://forums.acuralegend.org/f-whit...ura-t2177.html

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Old 11-23-2009, 09:31 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by The Crowing View Post
That's exactly what happened to me, and it was even through a dealership:

http://forums.acuralegend.org/f-whit...ura-t2177.html
Woaaahh! Perfect example, completely missed that thread. Good thing to hear that didnt fail somewhere else!

-Matt
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:11 PM   #13
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Mhmm. To summarize:

Car was immobile. We attempted to roll it into the driveway, and the steering gear let go.

Called Acura, and they BS'd me, saying they took the steering wheel off, when in fact, they had done it via yoke, and put the screw in backwards. Obviously, it didn't tighten, and voila!

Good thing I hit a deer, huh? Small chance, but possibly saved my life?
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:43 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by The Crowing View Post
Mhmm. To summarize:

Car was immobile. We attempted to roll it into the driveway, and the steering gear let go.

Called Acura, and they BS'd me, saying they took the steering wheel off, when in fact, they had done it via yoke, and put the screw in backwards. Obviously, it didn't tighten, and voila!

Good thing I hit a deer, huh? Small chance, but possibly saved my life?
So this happened after you smashed the car?

It was probably the lack of power steering from the car being off that caused the joint to strip.

-Matt

-Matt
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:55 PM   #15
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You are exactly right.

But, question raised... how long until that joint wiggled and jiggled loose enough to move with the car on?
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:01 PM   #16
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its a sign
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:09 PM   #17
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You are exactly right.

But, question raised... how long until that joint wiggled and jiggled loose enough to move with the car on?
Not long man, It probably would have let loose after you made a sharp turn or something. It didnt take much at all to get our parts car to strip and mind you that didnt even have any weight on the front wheels (missing engine and trans).

The customers car I had in that had a loose joint was terrible. Test drives FTW because he came in for engine work and didnt even complain about how the steering felt (you could move the steering wheel an inch either way before the car moved). I knew what the problem was before I even got it on the lift. He was shocked that I knew he had his rack changed recently without even looking under the car. Needless to say he probably wont be going back to the guy that changed his rack.

-Matt
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Old 11-24-2009, 07:42 AM   #18
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If you could, I'd weld the u-joint on to the steering column. That way, you can still replace the rack if necessary, and you cut your chances of having this happen in half (only 1 bolt will be affected instead of 2). I had it done, but for different reasons than described.
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:45 PM   #19
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great info here...sorry to go off topic, but what is the best priced replacement for the rack and pinion?
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:44 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by whats77inaname View Post
If you could, I'd weld the u-joint on to the steering column. That way, you can still replace the rack if necessary, and you cut your chances of having this happen in half (only 1 bolt will be affected instead of 2). I had it done, but for different reasons than described.
^ I like that idea. What about the bolt on the rack? Couldn't you use a threaded bolt that goes all the way through so you could put a nut on the end, or am I just way off here (I admit I don't know that much about rack and pinion system other than the basics of how they operate).
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