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Old 03-31-2019, 04:07 PM   #11
95legendcp
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Let us remember, he has had the system completely open. There are two systems (lines)on the master cylinder. 1st Line or (System) that the pedal piston applies pressure to is, Pass rear /Driver front(line closest to the booster). 2nd it applies pressure to is the Driver rear/Pass front. He still could have a faulty master cylinder, but with it being a diagonal braking system, He should Bleed it like the manual states.
1.Pass rear
2.Driver front
3.Driver rear
4.Pass front
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Old 04-01-2019, 01:42 AM   #12
IamPlan_B
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I have tried bleeding it the way the manual lists, and tried the rears first then the fronts, the passenger side front and back, drivers .....etc. And still outcome is the same. I see the brake fluid level drop when I bleed on the master cylinder. If I pump the brakes fast with engine on the pedal feels to stiffen slightly , but if I go slow, it goes straight to floor.
Is it possible to bypass the abs unit to check if m.c. and booster are working? Like making a line jig to connect the lines coming and going to abs to check if that's my problem.
I was just thinking of replacing the abs unit with a third unit, and hope that's my issue. But that isn't what is causing this, is it. When my car first started icing me abs light the pedal wasn't as bad, it got gradual, and since it is no longer on, I'm missing something. I tried the motor and hear it build pressure, but haven't tried the solenoids
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Old 04-01-2019, 06:32 AM   #13
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It sounds like it has something to do with the ABS. When I had a bad ABS modulator on my first generation Legend brake fluid would actually leak out of the modulator and make a puddle on the ground.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:04 AM   #14
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It certainly is possible to route the brake fluid around the ALB modulator. There would need to be a proportioning valve to provide less pressure to the rear brakes than the front. Other than that there are two brake lines off the master cylinder (for left-rear/right-front and right-rear/left-front) and 4 lines out of the modulator (one for each wheel).
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Old 04-02-2019, 03:52 AM   #15
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I bought the socket to bleed the abs , but its only part of the tool needed to do the bleeding, has it been done like this successfully. I. Don't know else to really do. I'm gonna exchange the m.c , as i have it under warranty and bleed everything all over again. I've never had anybody else work on my car the 19 years I've owned it and don't want to start now.
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Old 04-02-2019, 03:58 AM   #16
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When I went to junk yard , I saw a legend and when I pressed the brakes the pedal was hard and didn't go down all the way, and mine doesn't do that when off, its stiff but goes all the way down, and worse when off, maybe booster is bad?
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Old 04-03-2019, 05:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IamPlan_B View Post
When I went to junk yard , I saw a legend and when I pressed the brakes the pedal was hard and didn't go down all the way, and mine doesn't do that when off, its stiff but goes all the way down, and worse when off, maybe booster is bad?
If I understand, when you push on the brake pedal it goes slowly to the floor. That wouldn't be the brake booster. The brake booster just uses engine vacuum to apply stronger force to the master cylinder. Going slowly to the floor indicates a slow brake fluid leak either internal or external e.g. there could be some kind of internal leak in the master cylinder or some where in the ALB modulator.

When the system is working correctly, with the engine off there should be very little movement of the brake pedal when it is pressed, but with the engine running the pedal should go down a bit more.
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Old 04-04-2019, 03:53 AM   #18
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I was thinking about this problem. It seems that you replaced the ALB modulator and that didn't change the problem, so it doesn't seem the ALB system is likely to be the problem. Also the new master cylinder didn't change things so that seems unlikely to be the problem. I recommend replacing the brake hoses. The brake hoses are still available from Rock Auto at quite low prices.

Also check out the calipers. Try pushing the pistons back in (using the appropriate tool) to see if they are seized. If they are very hard to push back in replace them with rebuilt ones.
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:37 AM   #19
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I forgot to mention that during one the times I was bleeding using the mityvac, that some black rubber pieces came out the bleeder valve.
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:39 AM   #20
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Bought this to try and bleed the modulator,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Socket-90-9....c100935.m2460
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