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Old 03-27-2019, 11:46 AM   #1
IamPlan_B
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Default No brake pedal

OK, I'm at a point or I don't know what else to do. I know my way around a car and I usually do all my own repairs. But this time I am having trouble with these brakes issue .
ABS light came on and no pedal or very little pedal.code was code 1,
Replaced modulator/motor from a 94 couple that was running. Check codes, all gone but still low pedal.
Bled all four wheels multiple times, replaced brake booster from Same car I got ABS unit from, and new Japanese brake master cylinder, and still the same issue.
I bled the m.c before installing , got the air out. When bleeding the brakes, I did until all the old fluid was out and have new dot3 going to the wheels. After installing ABS unit, I used jumper wire on relay terminals, and motor ran and builds pressure.
Check rubber brake lines for bulging and nothing found.
What am I missing? I've already put it about 1200 on her since accident, and this is absolutely the last hurdle before I can get her on the road again
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Old 03-27-2019, 02:16 PM   #2
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Hard to say. Sounds like the ABS was not part of the problem as it was the same condition before and after.
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Old 03-27-2019, 09:55 PM   #3
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Had ABS light on and gave a code 1, that was why I did that, also had a battery light that would come on and off , so I replaced alternator
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:11 AM   #4
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I tried bleeding the brakes again, because that's what it feels like , like air in the system , if I push the brake pedal down lots of times quickly , I feel like its building pressure and don't go all the way down, but if I go slowly or normally it goes straight down with little or tiny brake feel.
Didn't have anyone to help me pump the pedal for bleeding, so I did the vacuum method with mityvac starting at rear driver, then rear pass, front driver, then pass front. Did get a lot of air out of lines but still no improvement
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Old 03-28-2019, 04:13 PM   #5
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Because brake fluid is incompressible it can only be one of two things, either there is still air in the system, or brake fluid is leaking, either out of the system, or internally past the seals in the master cylinder.

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Old 03-28-2019, 07:17 PM   #6
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It might not matter, but I've always bled the front brakes first several times and then the rear. All thats needed to bleed brakes is a piece of hose (such as a piece of vacuum line) that fits over the bleeder screw and a jar. Put the hose on the bleeder and the other end in the jar with some brake fluid in it. Open that one bleeder screw and pump the pedal several times close the bleeder and go on to the next. After doing both fronts I check for a pedal and usually bleed them a second time. Then do the rears. Often only the fronts need to be bled depending on what has been disconnected.
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Old 03-29-2019, 10:41 AM   #7
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Since i have nobody to help me bleed the brakes, I have to do on my own. I have all wheels off , on jack stands. I use a vacuum pump connected to a catch can on one end and the other end on bleeder valve. I pump a few times to create pressure then open valve and right away it draws the fluid and air out, and continue pumping until only fluid is drawn then close the valve and go to next wheel. I've done this and I don't see anymore air coming out, and for the pedal to just drop all the way, there must be a lot of air still in there. No leaks anywhere
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:14 PM   #8
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As I said in my post there is no need for a helper to bleed the brakes.

What you are doing should work. I've heard of doing it that way though I've never tried it.

Perhaps the new master cylinder is defective?
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Old 03-30-2019, 07:41 PM   #9
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The service manual states to bleed the brakes in the following sequence.
1.Pass rear 2.Drivers front 3.Driver rear. 4.Pass front.
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Old 03-31-2019, 07:52 AM   #10
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So I carefully read your post. Replacing the ABS parts made the ABS code go away but didn't fix the low pedal. One issue is when the ABS modulator goes bad it's usually the o-rings inside it. This can allow brake fluid to go from the regular brake circuit to the ABS circuit. The result is that the ABS reservoir over fills. I had that problem on a first generation Legend and the only fix was to replace the modulator with a used one. (A rebuilt ABS modulator is not readily available and quite expensive.) This worked for a few years and then the replacement modulator failed again and I since got rid of the car. Since most of your replacement parts are used it is not clear if they are good. I also don't know how the ABS brake circuit is supposed to be bled. It discusses that in the shop manual. I believe it is necessary to activate the solenoids to do that. Perhaps thats where the problem is.

The other possibility is that the master cylinder is still not fully bled. I would suggest you try the bleeding method I recommended and be sure that the fluid level in the master cylinder is going down as the bleeding process proceeds. That would tell you that the master cylinder is pumping fluid. I'm wondering if the vacuum method you used allows fluid to go back into the master cylinder from the reservoir. That's what I suspect.

BTW I don't think the bleeding order really matters.
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