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Old 01-04-2018, 06:47 AM   #11
carwhisperer
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Originally Posted by buzzard View Post
Thats not my build, just a guy who used a C32A in his off road car. Most guys here use the Albins AGB transaxle. My involment in that car was doing the egine management setup and tuning, and we dont use OEM Honda ecu.
I see. That looks like a pretty expensive transaxle to use with a 20 year old engine. Why would someone use a C32A when you can get 50+ more hp stock from a J series? The reasons I was attracted to this engine is because of the stock longitudinal trans, the fact that they have an aluminum block and they seem pretty plentiful in self serve JY's in Northern California. But if I wasn't using the Honda trans I would have gone with something newer.

What ECU platform do you use for a C32A? Megasquirt? Do you have a website?

How can I find out more info on what is the current state of C32A development?
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Old 01-04-2018, 07:15 AM   #12
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Well, that's what my friend started with. The J engine, though newer is a 60 V6. That 30 degrees introduces a couple of issues. First is that the center of gravity of the engine is raised. Second is crankshaft strength. Third is the space between the heads, for implementing a good intake manifold design.


We use an Autronic SM4 ecu. autronic.com.au.

The current state of engine development is 632BHP. Thats brake horse power, so thats at the crank. Twin turbo on 16psi.


Do a search on my user name, there is plenty of info on here.
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Old 01-04-2018, 07:23 AM   #13
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Also, as you have noted, they are cheap and plentiful. Engines here in Australia generally come via importers, direct from Japan. Plus, when this project was started, many years ago as a N/A race engine, the J engine was very new, and consequently very expensive.

Changining to a new engine now would mean replacing all manner of jigs and fixtures we have for the C engine, and that is both expensive and time consuming.
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:17 AM   #14
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Thanks for the info. That makes sense. I think the C engines are really cool, albeit old. I did watch a video of some of that racing and took a screenshot of a C32A. It looks like it has some sort of C intake manifold (maybe 3.5?) that has been flipped front to back. I flipped my T2 manifold front to back and capped off the back of my thermostat housing similarly. But they also capped the fitting from the coolant crossover whereas I made a crossover pipe that will connect back to the thermostat housing. Maybe that is because they don't run a thermostat and therefor don't need a bypass? At any rate, the one in the screenshot looks more elegant than mine. Maybe they didn't actually flip the manifold like I did. Maybe they just welded a throttle body flange to the back of the manifold? I thought about doing that.



My setup (before I welded an elbow to my crossover to connect to the thermostat).

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Old 01-04-2018, 08:20 AM   #15
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If you are using the Honda transaxle (not really a transaxle) then this rocket is mid mounted? One of the advantages of the diff housing being mounted on the side of the block is that the block structure is very strong.
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:24 AM   #16
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I am not sure on that engine in the pic you posted but our engines run a thermostat in the crossover, with no bypass. These are race engines and get propper warmup, so it's not so much of an issue. For a road car you definitely want the bypass.
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:33 PM   #17
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I must apologize assumed wrongly that you were blowing smoke like most do and were talking about the engine in a legend chassis and confused you with OP.

My manifold didn't decrease my mileage if any. I left the lower RPM flap in and it was functional. I figured I would pick an appropriate turbo size to spool up right about when it would open so I would maintain the torque I need for a heavy car.
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Last edited by Swift; 01-04-2018 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:45 PM   #18
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Yes. Mid engine. I flipped the intake backward so that I could access the throttle body from the back of the car. According to my measurements, I will need to cut out the rear package tray but should be able to save the back seat, not that passengers are a priority. Then of course I will need to build an openable cover so that I can access the accessories.
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Old 01-04-2018, 11:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift View Post
I must apologize assumed wrongly that you were blowing smoke like most do and were talking about the engine in a legend chassis and confused you with OP.
Let's not be too hasty here. I still very well could be blowing smoke, haha. But I have managed to buy a 74 Super Beetle, swap the front brakes to giant Porsche Brembos, buy a 93 T2/6 speed and flip the intake manifold. Right now I am building a dolly that can be adjusted at 3 locations. I also plan to use it as a test stand to fire the engine, so I can test my intake and coolant system mods before engine install. I'm pretty sure I"ll have leaks. I plan to have video ready in case the whole thing flips over. That would be funny!

I have finished many swaps before, but that is no guarantee I'll finish this one. I have thought about writing a book or blog about how to stay motivated when doing a car build. One key I've found is to avoid starting to dream about your next project until the current one is finished.

My daily driver is a 1989 Isuzu pickup that I swapped an LS1 into. As soon as I got it on the road, I started on the Super Beetle project. I should get back to the truck because it leaks oil like a pig (do pigs actually leak oil?).


A couple other builds I did 10 and 12 years ago. Today I'd make it less blingy:

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Old 01-05-2018, 12:13 AM   #20
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It's an awesome project. You will finish it. I usually use Exxon Valdez for an engine that leaks alot of oil.
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