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Old 10-10-2011, 08:52 AM   #1
Bee-Rad
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Default Sanding Clear Off - Need Some Help

So some of you've seen the above average paint damage on my CD7, which is a combination of desert heat and poor paint on these Accords to begin with.

I've decided to do some type of job on the hood, roof, and trunk, whether it be flat black, or some CF vinyl wrap.

My goal right now is to prep the surface by removing the remaining clearcoat on the surfaces right now.

I had some old sandpaper left here that I decided to take a shot with last night, and here's what I did so far.

Trunk lid:

Close up. I may have been too abrasive since I used a combo of 80 and 150 grit.

Side pillars:

Hood:


As opposed to before:


Anybody else have advice on how to do this better (different grit, wetsanding, direction, etc)?
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:59 AM   #2
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Just make sure you hit it with at least 320, but preferably 500-grit wet-Sanding paper if you don't want to see the big sanding scratches from the coarse trite you've used when you go to put paint on.

And you don't need to remove all the old clear, but you do need to feather the area where the clear is beginning to come off. You might want to get some primer and cover the areas where it transitions from clear to basecoat so the clear doesn't try to lift or wrinkle when you hit it with fresh paint.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:03 AM   #3
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+1 the grit your using is to aggressive, I'd use 800 grit wet sand paper.
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:06 AM   #4
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Thanks. I thought the 150 was fine, but I was confused with 1500, and red flags came up when I noticed the deeper scratches it was making. Most of the clear is already off, so I might just strip it all.

Does anybody know if it's possible to do this with a palm sander?
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:31 AM   #5
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What u need:



Throw some 80 Grit on it and sand it down and than bust some 220 and go over everything u sanded. Than wet sand with 400 wet sand paper
Than u can prime. That's what I'm doing to my mustang it has some horrible clear coat peal. The spots I finished came out perfect. I'd prefer this method because u don't get those heavy scratches. Good luck
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logistics View Post
Just make sure you hit it with at least 320, but preferably 500-grit wet-Sanding paper if you don't want to see the big sanding scratches from the coarse trite you've used when you go to put paint on.

And you don't need to remove all the old clear, but you do need to feather the area where the clear is beginning to come off. You might want to get some primer and cover the areas where it transitions from clear to basecoat so the clear doesn't try to lift or wrinkle when you hit it with fresh paint.
This. When I was helping out in my friends body shop he let me do the work on my sol. The previous owner had sprayed it and didn't take anything off of the car to do it, so there were hard lines. Feather all of those hard lines left from the clear peeling like Logistics said. And wet sanding with 500 grit is what you want, you can go over the already sanded areas to take care of those deep scratches from the too-coarse paper you've used already and you shouldn't see that after you paint.
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:04 AM   #7
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Thanks! I was hoping I could mask the scratches after the paint. I guess I need to buy some new paper today!

Ugh need moar flat black already!
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loyalty View Post
What u need:



Throw some 80 Grit on it and sand it down and than bust some 220 and go over everything u sanded. Than wet sand with 400 wet sand paper
Than u can prime. That's what I'm doing to my mustang it has some horrible clear coat peal. The spots I finished came out perfect. I'd prefer this method because u don't get those heavy scratches. Good luck
It would be great to see some before and after pics of what you did on your stang. I have some clear coat peeling id like to clean up as well.

Bee-rad, I dont know much about detailing, but those scratches dont look good. Looks like you may be burning thru the paint in some areas.
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:55 PM   #9
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Full disclosure...I have never, nor will I ever likely, work in a body shop. However, I've learned a few things over the years. First, clearcoat IS paint, it just doesn't have any pigment. Second is that there is a primer that you can use that will fill all of the scratches and allow you to then use the higher grit paper.


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Old 10-10-2011, 06:42 PM   #10
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When I prep panels for paint, 400 grit is my bread and butter. A good primer will hide grit 320 and finer, as long as the primer is "filling" or "high-build" and not just a sealing primer as they cure out quite thin. Side note....a dual action sanders allow heavy sanding with minimal marks that show-thru.

I go over everything that was sanded by hand with a very fine scotchbrite pad. Two good coats of most color bases will hide the scotchbrite marks. Side note....I've color sanded with scotchbrite pads as well, but you have to finish up with something finer.

Recommendations.....please don't use an acrylic lacquer or enamel paint. It makes it so much harder to paint over that stuff with the right stuff.

You can find catalyzed primer in rattle cans at some paint stores. You crack open a thing on the bottom that releases the hardener, and you must use the whole can within a couple hours. That is the best thing if you just want to primer it for now, because its a good filling primer, and being catalyzed, it will seal it up well.
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