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Old 01-24-2012, 10:36 PM   #21
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About how long did it take you to perfect the craft? I was considering getting a hood from the junk yard to practice on. What kind of spray gun do you use? I know your equipment has a lot to do with the quality as well. Sorry about all the questions but I get excited bc it's something I really want to learn. Body work, painting and detailing.
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:15 PM   #22
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About how long did it take you to perfect the craft? I was considering getting a hood from the junk yard to practice on. What kind of spray gun do you use? I know your equipment has a lot to do with the quality as well. Sorry about all the questions but I get excited bc it's something I really want to learn. Body work, painting and detailing.
I don't think I've perfected painting just yet, and I know very little about major body work like frame pulling...so I'm still a noob compared to some.

I actually used a relatively cheap gun to paint the black TL...a DeVilbiss Starting Line series. $200 for a set of 3 guns: 2 full size, one mini.

My favorite gun for clearcoat is a SATA jet 4000 series with a 1.0 mm tip and nozzle set.....runs around a grand....in dollars, not yen. Only use that one for the top quality clear jobs...like matching the finish on a new RL, there is almost no "orange peel" in the factory finish.

You can still use a cheaper gun with a tip size up to 1.3 or 1.4 to do clear, and you can lay it on real thick like that, but you'll have to wetsand and polish the new clear if you don't like orange peel, and that's a whole set of other tools for polishing.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:56 PM   #23
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That DeVilbiss Starting Line series 3 pc set seems pretty reasonable. I need to build up my tools. Do you run these with an air compressor? I guess another important part of a good paint job is making sure you have the correct setting: psi level, hardener to base paint ratio, etc. What do you use for your sanding work? Your sanding is really consistent.

I think first I'm going to get my Porter Cable 7424 next week and perfect my detailing and wet sanding skills.
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:48 PM   #24
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That DeVilbiss Starting Line series 3 pc set seems pretty reasonable. I need to build up my tools. Do you run these with an air compressor? I guess another important part of a good paint job is making sure you have the correct setting: psi level, hardener to base paint ratio, etc. What do you use for your sanding work? Your sanding is really consistent.

I think first I'm going to get my Porter Cable 7424 next week and perfect my detailing and wet sanding skills.
Paint guns use quite a bit of air...more than air tools like ratchets and torque guns. You can't use a cheap compressor unless it has a massive tank. You need to be able to maintain about 35 CFM for most paint guns. I used a Central Pneumatic compressor that had about 40 Gallon tank that ran about $250, but it was only good for shooting one panel at a time, and it would run constantly. Once the compressor can't maintain the pressure you need, the gun stops spraying evenly and spatters. You have to stop, wait for the comp to charge back up, and keep going, but that's hard to deal with when you're doing the clear coat.

Sanding will be easy(er) if you get that Porter Cable. It's a good polisher or sander. I recommend getting a contour pad for it, which is a thick flexible cushion that goes between the backing plate and the sanding disc. It's hard to sand a curved surface with a power sander without one. Getting a nice, sanded surface without sanding marks is much easier with a dual action sander like that PC. I use an Ingersoll sander that runs on air, but electric is no different, as long as it's DUAL ACTION/RANDOM ORBIT.

Whenever you get ready to buy your paint, just ask them for a tech sheet. It will give you all the info you need on ratio of hardener, percentage of flex additive, etc. Even tells you what pressure that particular brand of paint likes, and what gun tip size. I've found you can always go down in tip size by reducing the paint (thinning it), but you must never use a bigger tip than recommended. It just won't spray right.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:19 PM   #25
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Pearls and candies are much harder to do in sections like this though, one panel might look different than another if the candy or pearl coat is just a little thicker, so this is not usually attempted.
I had to try and match a dot over the letter "i" in a Virgin Australian airlines logo a day later than when the logo was originally painted. (The dot was left unmasked so it got skipped)

this is the exact paint job we put on this 737



The actual paint color is a charcoal grey base with a silver mica (metal flake) and then clear over the top. I couldn't get the dot to match the rest of the logo to save my life!

The dot I sprayed looked charcoal grey with silver mica over it, while the body logo looked silver. So I pounded on 4-5 more coats of the mica, and STILL couldn't get the dot light enough to match the body logo! *ugh*
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:42 PM   #26
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I'm just getting more serious about learning how to paint. I'm currently working on an OEM spoiler that had a couple long cracks and some small chips then I'll gradually move up to bigger projects.

I recently became a VIP member of learnautobodyandpaint.com to cut my learning curve. The owner of the site has done a great job of compiling videos on various aspects of body work and painting, and he continues to add series of videos. He told me that he's currently working on frame repair videos.

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Old 02-23-2012, 06:42 AM   #27
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I have been painting cars for the past 4 years now. Usually at least a car every 2-3 weeks. I know of 2 places you can go to in Canton if you want to head up there. I'm sure there's places you can go down by your area to buy paint supplies. Here's what you'll need to paint a whole car and approximate prices for it. This doesn't include sandpaper and tools.

1 bottle of scuff stuff - $13 - After sanding your surfaces smooth, use this, some water, and a gray scotch-brite pad to go over the entire car. This will give a uniform smooth surface for the paint to cling to. It also cleans off any oils and junk off the paint. Don't let this stuff get hard, keep it wet, and wash the car with dawn dishwashing liquid and water after you're done. I typically use windex and bounty paper towels to give it a final wash down before paint, then wipe it down with a tack rag right before I'm ready to spray.

1 gallon 2k urethane primer/surfacer - $80-120 - have this primer tinted close to the color of the base coat you plan on using. This helps paint coverage and will save you a lot of headaches. This is typically mixed 4 to 1 using the matching activator/hardener. These typically come as a kit

1/2 to 3/4 gallon urethane base coat - $80-300 - This is your color. There's about a million different colors to choose from. Make sure you take the color chips outside in the sunlight to make sure that is the color you want. You'll typically mix this 1 to 1 with urethane reducer unless directed otherwise.

1 gallon of urethane reducer - $20-30 - This is your thinner for the base coat

1 gallon of 2k urethane clear coat - $80-350 - This is your top coat. You can spend as much as you want on this, but what you're looking for is UV protection. If you want to spend less, then understand that that type of clear will need more care to prevent fading and chipping. This is almost always mixed 4 to 1 with the activator.

1 quart of 2k urethane clear coat activator/hardener - $20-30 - This is the hardener for the clear coat. It will come in slow, medium, or fast, and this depends on the temperature you'll be painting at and it will vary depending on humidity too. Colder temperatures will need faster hardening.
fast = 60-68 degrees
medium = 69-74 degrees
slow = 75-80 degrees

Paint gun cleaning thinner - $15 per gallon or $45 for a 5 gallon.

You can grab a set of these guns: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titan-Paint-...#ht_500wt_1203

which I usually use as throwaways. They're good for about 5-7 paint jobs and toss them in the trash, unless you spend the time to really clean them out. I mean completely disassemble them and let all the metal parts soak in a small pail of thinner. I have a DeVilbiss GTI gun that I use for my expensive jobs, which costs about $200-250.

If you have a decent air compressor (minimum 20 gallon) and a good dryer for your air line, you can grab the cheap guns, grab some paint, and find something to spray (not your car)

Sand it with 220 grit, then 400, clean it with windex, wait 10 minutes, then start spraying. Take your time, and make sure the area you're working in is either well ventilated or just go outside. Make sure you have enough material and air coming out of the gun. If you have a friend that has done this before, have him come over and help you.

I hope this gives you an idea on cost.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:43 AM   #28
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Thanks Mike. Did you paint your blue coupe? The thing had some mean candy flakes in it.

I gotta hit some auctions or CL to find a 20 gall compressor.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:45 AM   #29
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Well I had Maaco paint my coupe and it turned out well, but not excellent. So I decided to buy myself an industrial 60 gallon compressor and try my hand at painting again. I'll be starting soon!
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:32 AM   #30
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Well I had Maaco paint my coupe and it turned out well, but not excellent. So I decided to buy myself an industrial 60 gallon compressor and try my hand at painting again. I'll be starting soon!
Take pics! Let us know how it goes! Did you find a good deal on the compressor? Are you going to paint in a booth or your garage?
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