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Old 09-03-2011, 12:38 PM   #11
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^ What pads do you use with the HF one? I have one but was scared to use it on the legend.
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:49 PM   #12
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+1 on the harbor freight variable speed orbital...
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:50 PM   #13
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^ What pads do you use with the HF one? I have one but was scared to use it on the legend.
Get a 5" hook and loop backing plate, and use the same pads I suggested earlier.

To Chopped, where did you buy a PC for $300? I purchased mine BNIB for $125 with backing plate. I use mine enough that I had burned out the motor on one, and broke one. I also do professional detailing. I have since switched to a Flex XC 3401, now THAT is a $300 buffer. Much more heavy duty than the PC and gets great rotation. VERY rarely do I need to break out my Dewalt Rotary. In fact, I recommend NOT using a rotary unless you are doing spot scratch removal, or VERY intensive detailing. You cant just continuously buff with a rotary polisher. Each time you buff, you are removing layers of clear coat, eventually you will have none left. Most every Legend Ive seen has been easily detailed with a DA polisher. Choosing the proper pad and compound with a DA should get any beginner or novice detailer an excellent shine. I dont disagree with detailers often, but I strongly disagree with your advice.
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:46 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
Get a 5" hook and loop backing plate, and use the same pads I suggested earlier.

To Chopped, where did you buy a PC for $300? I purchased mine BNIB for $125 with backing plate. I use mine enough that I had burned out the motor on one, and broke one. I also do professional detailing. I have since switched to a Flex XC 3401, now THAT is a $300 buffer. Much more heavy duty than the PC and gets great rotation. VERY rarely do I need to break out my Dewalt Rotary. In fact, I recommend NOT using a rotary unless you are doing spot scratch removal, or VERY intensive detailing. You cant just continuously buff with a rotary polisher. Each time you buff, you are removing layers of clear coat, eventually you will have none left. Most every Legend Ive seen has been easily detailed with a DA polisher. Choosing the proper pad and compound with a DA should get any beginner or novice detailer an excellent shine. I dont disagree with detailers often, but I strongly disagree with your advice.
I do not agree with this. If you're going at 3K RPM with a compound and medium cutting pad every time you're correcting wash marring, that isn't ok. But if you're using a light polish with a low-cut/no-cut pad, it's not going to take off more paint than a DA, it's just not going to come out hologram-free if you aren't 1000% used to a rotary. I can only finish out about 97% hologram-free, but the only way I can find these holograms is at sunset.

That said, Honda clear coats are extremely soft. They will scratch, correct, and burn much easier than most German paint, and they are more difficult to finish out hologram-free than harder paint.
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigboy View Post
^ What pads do you use with the HF one? I have one but was scared to use it on the legend.
7 inch heavy cutting pads.

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Originally Posted by Chrispy View Post
Get a 5" hook and loop backing plate, and use the same pads I suggested earlier.

To Chopped, where did you buy a PC for $300? I purchased mine BNIB for $125 with backing plate. I use mine enough that I had burned out the motor on one, and broke one. I also do professional detailing. I have since switched to a Flex XC 3401, now THAT is a $300 buffer. Much more heavy duty than the PC and gets great rotation. VERY rarely do I need to break out my Dewalt Rotary. In fact, I recommend NOT using a rotary unless you are doing spot scratch removal, or VERY intensive detailing. You cant just continuously buff with a rotary polisher. Each time you buff, you are removing layers of clear coat, eventually you will have none left. Most every Legend Ive seen has been easily detailed with a DA polisher. Choosing the proper pad and compound with a DA should get any beginner or novice detailer an excellent shine. I dont disagree with detailers often, but I strongly disagree with your advice.
True about removing clearcoat, but what you have to understand is, I'm trying to remove all sorts of other things as well....

If I'm detailing an NSX, like Stevieray's NSX for example....



...and it's a car that's been well taken care of, there are not many scratches, swirls, and contaminants (like tree sap, real problem for this time of year) then a Dual Action is the best choice.

HOWEVER, I DETAIL NASTY CARS. I detail Odyssey minivans and old turd Accords that have not been taken care of, and there are scratches, swirls, sap, concrete, bird droppings (ACID!), and all sorts of terrible things lodged into the paint.

In my experience, I have found you can work all day on that paint with a DA, and you will never remove all that. Using the high speed buffer with heavy pad and heavy compound is the fastest way to get it all removed and shined up in one step.

I bought my Porter Cable when they first came out with the 7424 series. It came with a 10 buffing pad kit, 2 backing plates, wrenches, and extra brushes. Never had a problem, but like I said, I only use it as a final step polisher.
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:57 PM   #16
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I do not agree with this. If you're going at 3K RPM with a compound and medium cutting pad every time you're correcting wash marring, that isn't ok. But if you're using a light polish with a low-cut/no-cut pad, it's not going to take off more paint than a DA, it's just not going to come out hologram-free if you aren't 1000% used to a rotary. I can only finish out about 97% hologram-free, but the only way I can find these holograms is at sunset.

That said, Honda clear coats are extremely soft. They will scratch, correct, and burn much easier than most German paint, and they are more difficult to finish out hologram-free than harder paint.
That statement right there is why I recommend not using a rotary, especially as a beginner. Most deep scratches that require a rotary polisher will require high rpm and a a medium to heavy cut compound. For beginners I strongly recommend a light to medium cut polish (preferably a micro or diminishing abrasive compound to lessen the "oops" factor) on the highest setting with a PC, Megiuars, Griot's Garage, or Flex buffer and using a CCS orange pad. Follow that with a fine to light compound on a CCS white pad, then follow that with a filling glaze and top it off with wax or sealant. That has been the best combo for me on most Japanese cars and should work very well for any beginner. I know you and I have done a great deal of detailing and even I find it difficult to get a hologram free finish with a rotary. I can finish nearly flawless with a DA.
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:59 PM   #17
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Once upon a time, my paint looked like this:





Have fun fixing that with a DA.

Random after (Makita):



Rotaries are very, very messy. When you get the hang of it, they give a lot of dust. Before that, you get a lot of splatter.
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:05 PM   #18
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Chopped, I would have to agree there. That's why I said for intensive detail jobs, the rotary would work best.

Brett, Im not so sure my PC would have taken care of that, but I promise you, the Flex would. I used Dreams94coupe's Flex buffer back in November and instantly fell in love with it. It can easily achieve what a rotary would on a med/low setting, say about 1300-1500 rpm. BUT, if you dont have a buffer like that at your disposal for deep swirls, I would definitely recommend a rotary with a CCS orange pad and something like Wolfgang's swirl remover 3.0.
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:45 PM   #19
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This is done with surbuf pads and griots garage 6" da polisher and meguiars 105, followed by meguiars 205 and tangerine buffing pad, followed by 205 and black buffing pad. This detail was in conjunction with Peachstate Detailing LLC.

Started out on this corvette:

This was after, not nearly the same light, but you get the idea:


If you know anything about corvette clear, its harder then most, almost as hard as german paints.

BTW: this is not leaving any fillers at all.

I would never recommend a noob to try out on a rotary, absolutely never. Unless you have a seasoned veteran holding your arm while using the rotary, a beginner is not recommended to have it. Once I learned the cutting ability of the DA with the surbuf pads, i have not looked back.

BTW: you can burn paint with random orbitals, its just not as easy as dual action.

Id recommend getting the griots garage polisher, its cheaper on amazon and it gets a lifetime warranty unlike other products. Also, I highly recommend checking out autoality.com, they offer free shipping all the time on orders over $50
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Old 09-04-2011, 06:02 AM   #20
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So back to the original question... should the threadstarter buy a $125 DA? Or should they get the cheap rotary from harbor freight?

My answer is the cheap rotary, as long as it has variable speed. Keep the speed low, and there is low risk burning paint.

If they have a bigger budget, buy a DA.

But you simply can't expect to remove everything you could have if you used the high speed rotary.

This Lexus was an 09 that SHOULDN'T have needed heavy-duty polishing, but when I've painted and wetsanded the hood, and I need the rest of the car to be as shiny as the now-better-than-factory hood, the DA was just not cutting it....pun intended.





Also, the DA has never been able to polish out wetsanding jobs. Tim Taylor says, "More POWER!"
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