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Old 12-10-2017, 10:45 AM   #1
91RosewoodBrown
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Exclamation Diagnose engine misfire help

I've had what was an intermittent misfire this summer has turned into a full time engine misfire this winter. I have tried several things (see below) but I cannot resolve the issue. The check engine light has been on for over a month, code 44 (right side fuel supply).

-Checked all spark plugs for gap and condition (plugs changed 2 years ago with Bosch iridiums)

-While engine runs, unplug each coil pack individually. All coil packs unplugged caused the engine to run much rougher, with the exception of cylinder #4 (nearest the battery) which made no difference plugged in or unplugged

-Removed the fuel injector to #4, cleaned thoroughly with carb cleaner, reinstalled and the engine ran normal again for a couple weeks

-Engine began misfire again, leading me to believe a failing injector

-Installed brand new injector and replaced fuel filter (today), but no difference

-Switched coil packs between cylinders #4 and #5, with #4 still being the misfire cylinder (not a coil pack issue)

-Switched the spark plugs with #4 and #5, and #4 still being the misfire (not a spark plug issue)

Only thing left I can think of is an electrical problem with either the coil pack or the fuel injector connectors. I'm getting a voltmeter this afternoon, will check what the running voltage is to both (with car running) compared to the other working cylinders. I'm not quite sure how to fix it if I find a problem with voltage, and if I don't find an issue I have no idea what's causing the misfire.

Last note: code 44 refers to the right side fuel and/or O2 sensor. My misfire is clearly on the left side (drivers side). I did just replace the 02 sensor on the passenger side this fall, but my misfire doesn't appear to be related to this.

Anyone have any advice on what to check or what else might be wrong??
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:10 PM   #2
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Engine code is actually 45 (left fuel metering) which makes sense with a left side misfire
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Old 12-11-2017, 07:06 AM   #3
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Sounds like it could be the igniter: http://www.atfinley.com/service/inde...&z=2690&r=0934
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:14 PM   #4
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I checked the igniter following those instructions. Ground was good and each wire showed ~12.4v

Also checked voltage to the coil packs while car was running. Each coil pack is receiving ~0.4v (it bounces around from 0.25 to 0.45, I’m sure with the firing). This rules out a electrical issue on the coil pack side.

Is it possible for the fuel pressure regulator to go bad and cause this? I can’t imagine if it was the FPR that only one cylinder would be misfiring
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Old 12-12-2017, 08:09 PM   #5
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Default Diagnose engine misfire help

Fuel pressure (pump or filter) and MAP are definite possibilities.

O2 and vac leak have also been known to throw a 45. Does it take a while to come on after a reset?


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Old 12-13-2017, 12:13 PM   #6
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Were the fuel rails checked? Also, did any of the codes indicate cylinder #4 specifically, or just the left side fuel meter?

http://www.acuralegendwiki.org/index...CEL_45,_CEL_46
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holyabish1 View Post
Fuel pressure (pump or filter) and MAP are definite possibilities.

O2 and vac leak have also been known to throw a 45. Does it take a while to come on after a reset?


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Change filter this week, guess it could still be the pump. It takes 3-5 minutes of driving to turn on the engine light, probably long enough for the ECU to figure out I’m running way too rich or lean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by radieon View Post
Were the fuel rails checked? Also, did any of the codes indicate cylinder #4 specifically, or just the left side fuel meter?

http://www.acuralegendwiki.org/index...CEL_45,_CEL_46
Not sure how to check fuel rails. I checked immediately above where the injector fits and there doesn’t appear to be any blockage.

New information: Driving home from work now and it’s almost undriveable. Now throwing codes 2, 15, and 45. Code 2 is right side (passenger side?) O2 sensor, which I just replaced a couple months ago. Code 15 seems to be directly related to the Igniter Module, however I did unplug that while it was running for a second, might have that code still stored.
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Old 12-13-2017, 04:00 PM   #8
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Wow. All this time Iíve been checking and replacing various parts, and itís just this. Wire harness that plugs into the top of the igniter module. The 2 far right pins are corroded and broke in half, so metal to metal contact was minimal at best. I shoved 2 small pieces of tin foil into each pin, reconnected and now the car runs like normal for the first time in several weeks, without any engine codes.

Iíll properly splice in a new wire harness from a donor (donít need to rely on tin foil for the long run). Just another mind boggling fix to something I thought was going to be the end of my Legend.
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Old 12-13-2017, 07:01 PM   #9
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Good work👍👍


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Old 12-13-2017, 09:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91RosewoodBrown View Post


Wow. All this time Iíve been checking and replacing various parts, and itís just this. Wire harness that plugs into the top of the igniter module. The 2 far right pins are corroded and broke in half, so metal to metal contact was minimal at best. I shoved 2 small pieces of tin foil into each pin, reconnected and now the car runs like normal for the first time in several weeks, without any engine codes.

Iíll properly splice in a new wire harness from a donor (donít need to rely on tin foil for the long run). Just another mind boggling fix to something I thought was going to be the end of my Legend.
Ahh, the joys of Legend maintenance . Glad you got it figured out. Makes me shudder that I haven't laid eyes on half (over 90%) of the connectors under my car , though I will say that replacing cabin and engine harness wires in a beater Civic was fun.

I usually try to avoid splicing anything if I can, though.
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