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Old 01-15-2020, 08:53 AM   #1
Nevada Ray
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Default Igniter Unit (E12-310) (Hitachi)

Hello all - I've had 5 G1s and through the years there have been problems with either the main relay or ignitor unit (Hitachi E12-310). Fortunately I've got a couple extras of each. On the ignitor, is there a way to rebuild a bad one or can it be bypassed? Thx.

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Old 01-15-2020, 09:00 AM   #2
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Sometimes this part is also called the ignition control unit.
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Old 01-15-2020, 01:33 PM   #3
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Because the components inside the igniter are potted during manufacture, you'd probably destroy it trying to get to them.

It cannot be bypassed because it's the switch that's required to produce high voltage to fire the spark plugs. No igniter = no spark.

Basically, the ignition coil contains two coils, a primary and secondary coil, one inside the other.

The igniter switches the primary coil on and off (the on/off is controlled by the ECU).

When the primary coil shuts off, the collapse of its magnetic field induces high voltage in the secondary coil. This high voltage arcs across the spark plug and lights off the air/fuel in the combustion chamber.

I have the early OKI, MNE-310 ignitor in my coupe. These are more rare than hens teeth and are crazy $$$ when you can find working ones used. I'm still running the original OKI, it has lasted 33 years and +440k miles.



Years ago, in anticipation that the OKI would fail, I got a later model engine harness and used the Hitachi igniter plug off of it to make a no-splice adapter cable so I could retrofit a Hitachi igniter. I only tested it and put it away someplace.

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Old 01-16-2020, 06:19 AM   #4
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Are there any other Honda models that use the same igniter?

-Kennon
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Old 01-16-2020, 11:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKLedbetter View Post
Are there any other Honda models that use the same igniter?

-Kennon
Using Acura dealer parts lists as reference:

1986: No listing
1987: 04301-PL2-305 (replaces 30120-PL2-004, 30120-PL2-999)
1988 - 1990: 06302-PL2-H00 (replaces 30120-PL2-014, 30120-PV1-A01)

Both part numbers are discontinued and are NLA.

P/N 06302-PL2-H00 also fits 1992-1993 Vigor

There might be other Honda models that use the same igniter but it's a moot point as they're all discontinued.
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Old 01-17-2020, 01:24 PM   #6
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Thanks for the valuable feedback. If I recall on the main relay, sometimes letting it cool solved the problem. Does the same hold for the ignitor? i.e. ignitor gets hot in engine bay, expands, malfunctions. Would letting the ignitor cool off or implement better cooling (heat sink, repositioning) help with failures?
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Old 01-17-2020, 06:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevada Ray View Post
Thanks for the valuable feedback. If I recall on the main relay, sometimes letting it cool solved the problem. Does the same hold for the ignitor? i.e. igniter gets hot in engine bay, expands, malfunctions. Would letting the igniter cool off or implement better cooling (heat sink, repositioning) help with failures?
Even though it still is exposed to engine heat, I would think that the location of the igniter, up on the fender would be far enough away that it wouldn't be damage by the heat.

Unlike the Oki igniter, the Hitachi doesn't have cooling fins and has a non-metallic housing. Perhaps relocating it and extending the wire harness wouldn't be a bad idea.

Just thinking out loud; since your problem with failed igniters seems to be a chronic one, maybe there's an issue with something upstream and failed igniters is a symptom?

Usually with the Main Relay, it's broken solder joints. Some people that have soldering skill open the box and reflow (repair) the solder joints. Hot/cold cycles and vibration can fracture the solder joints.

Back to your original post; when you get a failed igniter, is the PGM-FI light on and is there a code flashing at the ECU?
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Old 01-18-2020, 06:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulo57509 View Post
There might be other Honda models that use the same igniter but it's a moot point as they're all discontinued.
While that might be a moot point with regard to ordering a new one, knowing alternate models could help in a junkyard search, especially since there are so few G1s.

Since the igniter is such a simple device, might it be possible that even non-compatible igniters could work by simply rewiring the connector?

-Kennon
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