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Old 01-09-2020, 10:54 AM   #1
JakeHoward42
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Default 94 Acura legend diagnostic help.

Need help with a diagnostic. I did the valve cover gasket and resealed the spark plugs (the seals were bad). No blown head gasket.
Gets fuel and spark but won't fully turn over. (I can hear the engine combust and try to start)
I am checking the timing today to see if it's off but I highly doubt it. I sodered the main relay that controls the fuel pump and it clicks now.. but still it might be bad.
At this point I think I'm down to 3 possibilities

1- Bad crank sensor
2- Bad main relay
3. Faulty Fuel Pump (although I saw fuel pressure when I checked the line, may be low)
*doesn't engage anymore or have pressure (tested this morning)
4. A bad ground

If anyone has had experience and can help me I would greatly appreciate it. I drive it all the way from Hugo (hour away), it sat overnight and now it won't start.
I cleaned the cylinders and put new spark plugs in after the reinstallment of the valve cover, maybe I didn't clean it enough as well? I also can't hear the fuel pump engage when I turn the key, I'm assuming it's smarter to get the main relay changed first?

Also if it's a bad ground, where should I check first? My eyes aren't great.

Side note:
Car doesn't make any sounds, ticks, or Thuds.
Tries to combust and does, stalls, then chirps. (RPMs never settle, it's like up, then dead)

I've read a lot from this site and you guys are awesome, a lot of intelligent and helpful people.
I need my car running by Saturday and I'm in a pinch.
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Old 01-09-2020, 01:20 PM   #2
JKLedbetter
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Welcome to the forum Jake!

It's never a bad idea to have a (known good) spare main relay.

Another possibility is a bad ignition switch. Stay on the starter just a tad longer and pay close attention to what happens with the dash lights when you let off the starter. A bad ignition switch may allow it to run in the "start" position, but lose electrical connection when you allow the key to spring back to the "run" position, which will also cause all the idiot lights on the dash to turn off.

-Kennon
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Old 01-09-2020, 01:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKLedbetter View Post
Welcome to the forum Jake!

It's never a bad idea to have a (known good) spare main relay.

Another possibility is a bad ignition switch. Stay on the starter just a tad longer and pay close attention to what happens with the dash lights when you let off the starter. A bad ignition switch may allow it to run in the "start" position, but lose electrical connection when you allow the key to spring back to the "run" position, which will also cause all the idiot lights on the dash to turn off.

-Kennon
I did what you suggested and nothing wierd happened to my dash light. No check engine light as well.

When I hold it at III position it sounds like

"Chirp, chirp, chug, chirp, chirp, chirp, chug*
Sounds like it really wants to start.
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Old 01-09-2020, 01:34 PM   #4
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Also can you elaborate what an idiot light is

Last edited by JakeHoward42; 01-09-2020 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 01-10-2020, 05:28 AM   #5
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"Idiot light" is a term for the various indicator lights on the dash. It evolved from being a derisive term for cheap substitutes for proper gauges. For example, instead of an oil pressure gauge, the manufacturer saved money by installing a light to indicate low oil pressure. But the light doesn't give you very much information.

On the other hand, lights catch your attention quicker than movement of a needle on a gauge, so they are now common even on vehicles with proper gauges.


Getting back to your problem, have you checked for codes?

Another possible cause is a bad coolant temp sensor fooling the computer into thinking the engine is very cold, which can cause flooding. But this typically only prevents starting in very hot weather.

Have you checked your fuel filter?

-Kennon
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Old 01-10-2020, 05:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKLedbetter View Post
"Idiot light" is a term for the various indicator lights on the dash. It evolved from being a derisive term for cheap substitutes for proper gauges. For example, instead of an oil pressure gauge, the manufacturer saved money by installing a light to indicate low oil pressure. But the light doesn't give you very much information.
On the other hand, lights catch your attention quicker than movement of a needle on a gauge, so they are now common even on vehicles with proper gauges.


Getting back to your problem, have you checked for codes?

Another possible cause is a bad coolant temp sensor fooling the computer into thinking the engine is very cold, which can cause flooding. But this typically only prevents starting in very hot weather.

Have you checked your fuel filter?

-Kennon
I'll check my fuel filter today.

UPDATE
I went into my trunk and put my ear close to the fuel pump, I read that they are quieter, (that's why I wasn't hearing it before) and it engages.

I'm going to be replacing the main relay when I get paid and I will update this thread. Hopefully it fixes my problem. Getting a continuity tester to further diagnose today. Thank you for your knowledge!
I was trying to jump the computer wire and get the code but I actually don't have a check engine light, wasn't on when I was driving either. The only visual problem was the D4 blinking but I know that's just the VSS.

Fingers crossed

Last edited by JakeHoward42; 01-10-2020 at 05:54 AM. Reason: Mispelling
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Old 01-28-2020, 09:44 PM   #7
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This playlist may be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DPe...5LgIrs-NbaKw_k

Yes, the coolant temp sensor (TW sensor) can cause a no-start condition. Also, the main relay can be tested on a bench. I would do some testing before you start replacing parts and drive yourself crazy.
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