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Old 06-03-2009, 12:23 PM   #1
sam o nela
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Default Auxiliary Lighting (Fog Lights) Install

Originally Posted by body9599

Materials:
Driving/Foglight kit: lights, relay, wire harness, switch
Split loom
Electricians tape
Zip ties

Tools:
8mm and 10mm sockets
Phillips screwdriver
Wire stripper
Pliers
Drill and various sizes of drill bits
Soldering iron, solder, shrink tubing (optional)

Summary:
Wiring auxiliary lights requires two main things: power to lights and signal from car/driver. Lights can be wired to turn on whenever the headlights are on, whenever a switch is flipped or both. In this example the lights will be wired to come on with the headlights with an optional off switch.

Relays are the center of any properly wired auxiliary lighting system. This lets a lower power system operate (turn on and off) a higher wattage system like a set of lights. In this case a low power signal from the light switch will use a relay to turn on a 55watt driving light set. Always use a relay…don’t try to wire lights directly into a switch or the switch could burn up.

Procedure:
Disconnect battery and remove. Remove engine compartment portion of air intake to make routing of wires easier.

Bumper removal –

Remove turn signal lights (2 screws each…disconnect wires)
Unbolt bumper from frame through turn signal hole (2 bolts each side)


Unbolt underside of bumper (three screws toward front)


Unbolt left and right undersides of bumper (Two screws each side)


Unscrew single screw on each side and pull bumper forward. Sides have slide clips that will release.


Disconnect ambient air temperature sensor to free bumper. Mount lights where desired...disassembly of the bumper may be required. Most light kits come with connectors to make attaching the power and ground wires easier. If you mount the lights inward of the headlights use the small holes already present (widen with drill bit if necessary…makes for a clean look)


Wiring power to lights -

The Hella kit I used came with a relay and wiring harness. The wires are also color coded from the relay socket. Blue = power to lights Red = power from battery Black = ground Green = +12V signal

The relay can be mounted inside the engine bay. Preferably somewhere with limited exposure to the elements. From this the blue light power wire is routed down into the bumper to provide voltage for the lights. The red battery power wire is routed to the positive battery terminal. The black ground wire is routed to the nearest ground. The green signal wire is routed to the cabin to be connected to the headlight power switch and/or a separate switch.

The light power cable is routed through a hole near the engine air intake down into the fender well and across the front of the car to provide power to the two lights. These kits are universal and therefore not the exact fit you might hope for. I cut and soldered several of the wires to make a better fit with less slack. In the front of the car a separate ground wire is run from a frame ground point to each of the lights. A ground point can be made in any metal surface by drilling a small hole and using screws that come with most kits to secure the ring terminal end of the ground wire to the frame.

The power connection can be made inside the engine fuse box to give a clean look without having to attach directly to the battery. Open the fuse box and push on the two indicated tabs to lift the interior lid of the fuse box.

The red power wire is the secured to the positive terminal within the box. You can follow the thick wire to the battery to make sure it is the + battery terminal. The ground wire can be attached just below the fuse box where several other grounds terminate.


Wiring signal cable -

If you only want the lights to come on when the headlights are on you can run the green signal cable to one of the headlights. Kits come with a small plastic splicer that allows you to tap into a power wire. In this case you would have to tap into the + power cable at the headlight. Although this is the most simple solution because it doesn’t require routing into the cabin, I did not want to risk ruining the headlight harness.

The signal cable can be routed through most any available hole in the firewall. In this case the signal cable is routed to the rear right corner of the engine compartment and out into the fender well.

Remove the wheel well liner to expose the fender well. Inside the fender well there is a rubber grommet that hold the hood release cables. A hole was punched in the rubber and the wire was passed through to the interior. (picture shows approximate placement of grommet)


Interior work –

Remove the lower dash panel using the two screws (your left one should be recessed…I replaced mine with a longer screw and bolt when the plastic broke off)

Disconnect all connectors attached to the dash panel.


In the far right corner of the floor you will hopefully be able to see the signal cable that you passed through from the engine bay.

To the left of the steering column there is a metal support cover that needs to be removed. The hood release is blocking one bolt so it must also be removed.

Remove the four 10mm bolts that hold the cover in place. (note the bolt that was used as a ground point for the switch)


Route the signal cable from the engine bay over the heater duct and upward to where your switch will be.


With the cover removed you should be able to see a block with many cable connectors going into it. The headlight switch signal output is found on a 10 pin connector with 5 wires attached to the middle bottom of this connection block.


Disconnect this set of wires and splice a ew wire into the red cable. This will provide +12V signal to the switch whenever the parking lights are on.


If you are using an OEM switch you can use the following pictures. If you are using a switch without a light on it you can simply attach the green signal wire from the engine compartment to the power signal from the red connector wire through a switch. If the switch has a light that glows when the switch is on then you will need to ground the switch to the ground point mentioned and shown above. The OEM fog light switch has an additional light that turns on and dims according the dimmer level in the car. I have not hooked this up yet. Hooking the OEM foglight switch as shown will allow you to stop the headlight signal to your relay so that your auxiliary lights do not power on.

If you didn’t want to use a switch at all and didn’t want to tap into your harness at the headlight then you can simply splice the green signal wire from the engine bay to the red wire on the headlight power switch connector. The ground for any switches can be attached to one of the metal cover bolts using a ring terminal. Once all connections are made hook up the battery and test the lights. (click headlight switch to park or low beam and flip auxiliary light switch if present). Replace all panels and parts as they were removed. Use split loom to protect wires and use zipties to secure wires from moving. When replacing parts make sure not to pinch or damage wires. OEM light switches can be fitted into button knockouts in dash. Non-OEM light switches can be installed by mounting on one of the blank knockout hole covers.

When replacing the bumper each side has a clip on the end nearest the wheel that must be properly attached. Remember to reconnect the ambient air sensor and replace all bolts and screws. Replace wheel well liner. Adjust headlight beams according to manufacture’s instructions.


Hopefully this helps a few people out there. If you find any problems or have any questions please let me know. Later.
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Old 12-12-2015, 11:21 PM   #2
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Hey Gabe question. Can I use say one of th 056700 relays as the relay for my fog lights? U know the relays te black ones with 4p connectors say from. 97 accord that have the holes in the pins puurtruding from the relay it self. This is my first fog light and relay hook ever btw man!!!!
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