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#31 | |
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Senior Member
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took me a while to get the covers off, but i went by look and feel. I didnt have any DYI to do that so it took me a while, but just keep following the plastic covers with the bolts head and unscrew it. Thanks to LegendLand timing belt/ water pump thread. ![]() heres the pictures for you. get some towel cause there will be spills, coolant will flow out of the thermostat housing when you pull out the thermostat. 2. Disconnect and remove the battery from the engine bay. This makes much more room to work. (Note: If you remove the battery, make sure you have the right activation code for the radio.) ![]() 3. Remove the intake. It’s held on by 4 clips at the main air box, one hose going into the left valve cover, a couple hoses going in to the end of it, one clamp holding it to the throttle body, and one screw holding it onto the radiator. ![]() 4. Remove throttle cover (2 bolts). Once that is removed, loosen the throttle cables and remove them from position. Be sure to mark where the nuts holding it on originally were and label what cable goes on what side. ![]() ![]() ![]() 5. Drain coolant from engine. I needed to remove the lower engine shield to get to this part. As illustrated, coolant plug is located underneath the radiator on the right. Be sure to open radiator cap while draining fluid so air can flow through and assist in the draining process. ![]() 6. Now remove both cooling fans from the engine bay. Each fan is held on by two bolts on top and two on the bottom. To get to the bottom ones, the splash shield must be removed. Remove the top bolts and loosen the bottom bolts and the fans will lift out. Be sure to unplug the fans and move the harness out of the way. ![]() ![]() also to get the thermostat out, Thanks to GrtOutdoorsAZ. http://forums.acuralegend.org/thermo...ght=thermostat you have to follow these steps presented by mtnbikkerkid33 1) Drain coolant from radiator by loosening the plug located on the bottom - left side of the radiator. Removing the plug completely is not necessary. (you will need to remove the skid plate under the car to do this) Removing the cap allows coolant to drain faster. 2)Detatch upper and lower radiator hoses AT THE RADIATOR. 3) On the bottom of the radiator are two transmission oil cooling lines (I think that's for automatic tranmsissions only, someone please verify this.) Detatch them AT THE RADIATOR and quickly plug them up with a bolt ot something of equal size to the inlets they attatch to on the radiator. 4) Remove cooling fans by loosening the two bolts on the bottom corners of the fan shrouds, and removing the two on the top corners. They should lift right out if you angle them toward the rear of the vehicle a little bit. (and make sure you unplug them ) 5)Unplug the temperature sensor on the bottom right corner of the radiator. 6) Unbolt and remove upper radiator support brackets. 7)Lift radiator out CAREFULLY. Avoid contact with any part of the car, the veins are very delicate and will bend if they touch ANYTHING. You're done! Installation is inverse of removal. Last edited by Caliente Legend; 12-29-2009 at 10:40 PM. |
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#32 | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 19
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Spectra Premium is a company based out of Canada. They make a lot of crap from gas tanks, fuel pumps, rads, a/c condensers, and so forth. A lot of their radiators have seemed to have fit problems and because of that I have dropped them along with Silla (crap) from my vendor lineup. Be careful on shaving the filler-neck on the Rad. Hate to see you ruin your warranty like that. You should almost always replace rad cap when you get new radiator anyways as they are pressure caps and can get worn over time. Very rarely would a cap cause a problem, but it does happen. Koyo Rads are great, I have been selling them to a few guys on forum in the $95 range. Also, Cryomax puts out a great radiator as well (younger company than koyo so name isn't as big yet). No need to go with an all metal copper radiator on the legend, Plastic Aluminum will suit you just fine. In fact Koyo does not mass produce the copper ones for the legends as they do plastic/aluminum but they do fire a few out here and there. Great DIY pics Caliente!
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#33 | |
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The Stig
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Port,FL
Posts: 8,174
Real Name: The Stig
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nice write up. the rad replacement is pretty easy, i typically don't even pull the fans until its out. it comes out with them in there.
also the throttle linkage can stay connected. if u do remove it, make sure you adjust it right. adjusting procedure: http://www.atfinley.com/service/inde...&z=2690&r=0156 also fyi, its hard to mix up the CC and throttle, they cables only fit one way into the linkage.
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Annie... 210,000 miles and counting total seat time since 2005 120K+ (btwn Annie, Misty, 93'6spd, C'bury, and Frosty) Quote:
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#34 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Trotwood, Ohio (Dayton suburb)
Posts: 1,091
Real Name: A King!
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Yea, pulling the radiator is super easy to do. Leave the fans on until you get it out. All you have to do is drain the radiator, disconnect all the screws and upper and lower radiator hoses, transmission lines and it will slide right out.
As for the cap, I bought my radiator from O'Reilly and the OEM cap didn't fit either. All I did was modified the OEM radiator cap so it fit. I just took my pocket knife and shaved off some of the plastic until it twisted on. No problems.
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Last edited by Aking; 01-10-2010 at 10:50 PM. |
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#35 |
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Straight OEM
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I never take the throttle cables out o the bracket. I just remove the whole bracket, it seems easier.
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- NorCaLegend - 1991 L(S) Type I(I) coupe Build thread: http://forums.acuralegend.org/norcal....html?p=188337 |
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#36 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Laurel, MD
Posts: 564
Real Name: Quinton
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I got mines today (for some reason can't upload attachment). It was only $130. BTW, thanks for the radiator swap diy. Do I have to flush out the old coolant?
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"This 91 Coupe is going to be an adventure" Check out my 4 sale thread: http://forums.acuralegend.org/my-95-...6.html?t=24596
Last edited by Qs91Coupe; 03-11-2010 at 11:21 AM. |
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