DIY: G2 Legend Timing Belt/ Water Pump

[LegendLand]

Complete DIY for Changing 1991-1995 Acura Legend Timing Belt/Water Pump

This DIY is a direct result of the generous help and teaching I recieved on my Legend from Ty, Acura2g. Thanks to him I was able to do this project on my mom's Legend solo. Thanks, Ty

Disclaimer: I am not responsible in any way for what can and may go wrong while doing this DIY. This project requires some knowledge of the workings of our engines and you must be familiar with basic hand tools. Enjoy the DIY and good luck with the project.

Tools required for this project:
1. Timing belt, preferably OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)
2. Water pump, preferably OEM
3. Timing belt tensioner, preferably OEM (optional, I didn’t get one)
4. Coolant (mixture is one part water to one part coolant)
5. Bucket or reservoir for draining coolant
6. Torque wrench (8+ foot pounds)
7. 2 breaker bars (preferably long ones for better torquing power)
8. Long metal pipe (to remove crankshaft)
9. Crankshaft pulley holder (specialty part found at local part stores)
10. Various screwdrivers
11. Pump pliers (for hose removal)
12. Various ratchets 6,8,10, 12, 14… mm
14. 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to sand down water pump gasket surface
15. Gasket sealer- for top of water pump if your new one doesn’t have a gasket.
16. Hanging shop lights- recommended for work in dark areas in the engine bay
17. Rubber mallet- for gentle persuasion (small block of wood may also be helpful)
18. Jack and jackstands
19. Lots of paper towels
20. Safety glasses for messy coolant and working under the car.
21. Patience… you will need it desperately


HERE WE GO!!!
1. Cover up the fenders with blankets so it they don’t get damaged from falling tools. LIKE MY CRUTCH?


2. Disconnect and remove the battery from the engine bay. This makes much more room to work. (Note: If you remove the battery, make sure you have the right activation code for the radio.)


3. Remove the intake. It’s held on by 4 clips at the main air box, one hose going into the left valve cover, a couple hoses going in to the end of it, one clamp holding it to the throttle body, and one screw holding it onto the radiator.


4. Remove throttle cover (2 bolts). Once that is removed, loosen the throttle cables and remove them from position. Be sure to mark where the nuts holding it on originally were and label what cable goes on what side.





5. Drain coolant from engine. I needed to remove the lower engine shield to get to this part. As illustrated, coolant plug is located underneath the radiator on the right. Be sure to open radiator cap while draining fluid so air can flow through and assist in the draining process.


6. Now remove both cooling fans from the engine bay. Each fan is held on by two bolts on top and two on the bottom. To get to the bottom ones, the splash shield must be removed. Remove the top bolts and loosen the bottom bolts and the fans will lift out. Be sure to unplug the fans and move the harness out of the way.




7. Remove all coolant hoses from the front of the engine bay to open up the timing belt area. Most are held on by clips that can be removed with a pair of pump or long-nosed pliers if you prefer. Be sure to have the coolant drain container under the area where you are working because the hoses tend to leak quite a bit.




8. At this time it would be a good idea to remove the lower throttle cable container piece. It’s held on by two 10mm bolts on the left side and one 8mm on the bottom.


9. Remove these small hoses. These can just get pulled off by hand. Be sure to label which hose goes where.


10. Remove wire harness cover on the front of the engine. It is held on by a couple bolts and multiple clips that go around the wires. Attempt to move the harness out of the way without damaging any wires. Remove the grounding bolt on the front of the engine.


11. Now remove the alternator belt. Release the tension by loosening the two bolts on the top and bottom of the alternator as illustrated. Loosen the bolt on the tensioner as well and the alternator should move freely. The belt should slide right off. Be sure to note the tightness of the belt before you remove it.


12. Once the alternator belt is removed, completely remove the air conditioning tensioner to get the air conditioning drive belt off. It is held on only by two bolts on the right side.


13. Set it aside and make note of the part and where it goes. The belt will just slide off after this is done. Mark the belt so you know which one goes where.

14. To remove the power steering belt, loosen the bolts on the top and bottom of the power steering pump and the belt should just slide right off.




15. Remove both of the upper timing covers. They are held on by 3 bolts each. These just pull right off after. Be sure to readjust the seal if it comes out of the grooves.




Now for the hard part, removing the crankshaft pulley. This is the most annoying and painful part of this project. The bolt that holds the crankshaft on is tightened at the factory with approximately 291(?) foot pounds. It’s not easy to remove if you don’t have the tools and the strength to do it.

16. To remove this crankshaft, install the pulley holder on the crankshaft and connect one breaker bar to it. Brace this whole part against the floor on the left side so holds well when you pull on it. To remove the bolt, use your other breaker bar and a 19mm or ¾ inch socket with a pole extension if needed.
And alternative method of removing the crankshaft is to use a chain wrench to hold the pulley and a 19mm socket on the bolt. Wrap something around the pulley to keep the chain wrench from gouging it, This way you don't need the holder tool and only need one breaker bar. Muscles are a plus...


After this is all set up, pull on it with all your weight and hope for the best. At this time, remove the bolt and the hub after the timing marks on the upper timing wheels match the marks on the rear timing covers. This is known as TDC. TDC in this case is when the #1 piston (passenger side, front) is at the top of its compression stroke. It's ok if any of the pulleys move a little after removing the timing belt, just make sure each one is in position before and after installing the new belt. If the timing gets off by accident, simply readjust the pulley to where it was originally. If you have to turn any of the pulleys counterclockwise, turn them slightly past TDC, and then clockwise to TDC.




17. Now the engine oil dipstick must be removed in order to get the lower timing cover off. It is just held on by one 10mm bolt and pulls right out. Find something to block the hole going into the engine oil so coolant doesn’t leak in there. I found that a wire nut works just fine to plug it.



18. Now remove the lower timing belt cover. It is held on by about 6 bolts. It just lifts off after all is removed. Be sure to readjust the seal if it comes out of the grooves.


19. Remove the lower timing belt guide and set it aside. It just slides off the pulley.

20. Check that the system is at Top Dead Center (TDC) and be sure that the marks on the upper timing wheels line up with the lines on the rear timing covers. With this done, the timing belt can now be removed.
The definition of Top Dead Center is here:
TDC in this case is when the #1 piston (passenger side, front) is at the top of its compression stroke. It's ok if any of the pulleys move a little after removing the timing belt, just make sure each one is in position before and after installing the new belt. If you have to turn any of the pulleys counterclockwise, turn them slightly past TDC, and then clockwise to TDC.

[LegendLand]

21. To remove the Timing Belt, simply loosen the tensioner bolt with a 10mm ratchet and carefully remove the belt from the car. Note how the timing belt is installed so it you can reinstall it the correct way. If you don’t remember, posted is a picture of how the belt should be installed.


22. Now for the water pump. Remove both hoses that connect to the bottom of the water pump. Make sure the coolant drain reservoir is underneath the water pump because it will spill and it will spill badly.

With that done start removing the bolts around the entire water pump. There are two on the top of the pump and one pesky one hidden behind the right rear timing cover. So the water pump bolts don't get mixed up, it is a good idea that once you take a bolt out, set it in the same exact place in the new water pump so you don't confuse the bolts.


This one will take a while to get off. Once all bolts are removed, tap the water pump with a mallet (or a regular hammer with a block of wood) to free it. Be absolutely sure that all the bolts are removed or you can damage the engine block. After this is done simply lift the pump from the car.

23. To ensure a proper seal when the new pump goes on, wet sand the entire gasket surface with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to remove all excess gasket and restore the clean factory finish. You may also use a dremel tool to clean the surface.


CONGRATULATIONS!!! YOU'RE HALF WAY THERE!

24. Install the rubber gasket on the new water pump and tack it down in various places with automotive grade RTV gasket sealant so the gasket doesn’t move when it is being installed and cause a catastrophic failure.


25. Put the new water pump into the car and make sure it fits properly before putting bolts in. Double check the gasket behind the pump to be sure nothing moved. Start finger tightening the bolts on the pump.


26. Using your torque wrench, torque the bolts to 9 foot pounds on the 10mm bolts and 12 foot pounds on the 12mm bolts. Always start from the center and work your way out to be sure everything sets properly.


27. Re-connect the hoses to the bottom of the pump and install the clamps. Be sure the hoses sit properly on the pump so it doesn’t leak.


28. Install the bolts on the rear timing cover on the right side so you can see whether or not the pulley moved at all. If it did, carefully readjust the pulley to TDC.

29. Now to install the timing belt. Make sure that the product numbers on the belt match so you can be sure that you are using the right part.

Once verified installation of the belt can begin. Start with the right pulley and work your way across and down making sure the belt is tight enough. Here's a link for installing the belt: http://www.atfinley.com/service/inde...=0103&zoom=100If you are replacing the tensioner, do so now. The piece that the spring connects to is held on by a protrusion that sticks out of the block. Make sure that this piece is in place before proceeding. Stretch the tensioner spring from the tensioner to the protrusion on the water pump. The belt should be tight now. Torque the tensioner bolt to 40 foot pounds and be sure the tensioner is centered. The timing belt should be at about a half-turn deflection when you twist the belt. Be sure it is not too loose or too tight or the whole thing could end in tears. :bigcry:




30. Install the lower timing guide. This just slides over the hub.

31. Reinstall the lower timing cover.


32. Reinstall the crankshaft pulley by simply sliding it straight on to the car. Reinstall the bolt and use the breaker bar to tighten it. Turn the whole system around about 6 times to help the timing belt to seat right. This is enough torque to hold the bolt on. If needed, remove the sparkplugs to make turning it easier.




33. Reinstall the upper timing covers at this time.


34. Install the power steering belt and readjust the tensioner bolts on the top and bottom of the pump. Make sure the belt isn’t too tight. Loose is good, but too loose won’t help you at all.




35. Reinstall the A/C belt then put the tensioner back on. Start with the upper bolt then go to the lower one. Adjust the tensioner as needed. Be sure the belt isn’t too tight.

36. Put the alternator belt back on and lightly tap the 6mm tensioner to push the alternator to the right a bit to get more tightness. Then tighten the bolts on the top and bottom and adjust the tensioner as needed. Be sure the belt isn’t too tight or too loose.


37. Reinstall the lower throttle cover with the bolt on the bottom and the 2 bolts on the left side. Install the throttle cables and tighten appropriately. Install the black cover as well.




38. Now install the cooling fans. Start with the one on the right. Be sure which one is which. Slide it into the lower bolts and plug it in. Install the relay box and tighten the top bolts. Then go underneath the car and tighten the lower bolts and reinstall any clips that you may have removed so the wires don’t get caught in the fan.

39. Install the left cooling fan the same way. Plug it in, slide it into the lower bolts, tighten the upper bolts, then the lower bolts and make sure all wires are out of the way of the blades.

40. Reinstall all the coolant hoses in the car. While doing this, check for cracks. Any damaged hose should be replaced. Double check your work to be sure everything is in the right place.






41. Reinstall the intake. Connect the hose to the throttle body then go from there installing hoses and clipping it down. Don’t forget to put the air filter back in.


42. Reinstall the battery. Now would be a good time to check for corrosion on the positive and negative sides of the battery and the ends. If there is any, use a wire brush to remove it.

43. Add the coolant to the radiator. (If necessary, flush the cooling system with a garden hose to remove all dirt, debris, and old coolant.) Remember that a 1:1 coolant/water ratio is needed (unless you use genuine Honda coolant) so it will need mixing if you don’t have the right mixture. It will take a bit over a gallon to fill the whole system.

44. Reinstall the engine splash shield underneath the car and set the car down.

45. Double check all your work before you start the car. Check for tools and miscellaneous other things in the engine bay. Reset the time and radio inside the car.

46. Start the car and see how it runs. Leave it running and check for coolant leaks. If the car is overheating at all, coolant is leaking or your cooling fan sensor switch is bad. (This part can be purchased at acuraoemparts.com for about 8 bucks. It is located on the left side at the bottom of the radiator.) If the engine sounds rough… well let’s just say it’s time to start over and readjust the timing.

47. Take the car for a test drive and check the air conditioning and steering. Make sure everything is working properly.

48. If everything checks out ok, wash up and grab a tall glass of iced tea and watch TV for the rest of the day taking pride in the fact that you did this project yourself and saved about 800 bucks in the process…

I hope this DIY was helpful to anyone doing this project. I covered the whole process to the best of my ability and since this is my second time doing this, every aspect has been covered pretty well. If you have any questions at all, don’t hesitate to PM me and I will get back to you as soon as I possibly can.

Have a great day!

Oh, and rep points are greatly appreciated!!!

[Alperovich]

damn noice! good work my friend! good work indeeed.

[Captain Kenpachi]

I approve....

[Biggg72]

now thats a diy. THANKS BRO! how does this rep thing work? since all that was off, how much more work would you say to change the alternator? if the alternator where to be changed how much more for the starter?

what are pump pliers?

[LegendLand]

Thanks alot guys!!!!

Originally Posted by Biggg72

now thats a diy. THANKS BRO! how does this rep thing work? since all that was off, how much more work would you say to change the alternator? if the alternator where to be changed how much more for the starter?

what are pump pliers?

Thanks man! If you look at the bottom left side of my post next to the button thingy that says whether I'm on, you will see the reputation button. All you do is click on it and add a comment if you want to.

To get the alternator off I really can't say. I'm really not a mechanic. I would expect that it would be easier with all this stuff off because you have the entire area around the front of the alternator opened up and the shield off the bottom of the engine so I expect it wouldn't be too much work.

Pump Pliers:

[Alperovich]

if u need pleirs. these things are badass for working on a legend.

[Biggg72]

^ got a set, thats what i used to pry that quarter out of my seat rail.

[Alperovich]

Originally Posted by Biggg72

^ got a set, thats what i used to pry that quarter out of my seat rail.

yea, its the pliers of unlimited uses.

[Russian]

Nice DIY.